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Thread: I messed up - how to fix it?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member JuanSigned's Avatar
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    Default I messed up - how to fix it?

    I'm doing a complete gut and remodel of my master bath, and trying to do as much work as I can. But sometimes it's just better to hire a pro. Which is what I did in this case. I had him install the drain and vent for a new tub. He put the drain exactly where I asked him to put it, but I messed up the measurements and now it is about 10" from where it needs to be. Now what?

    Can I put a couple of long sweep elbows to move it over? Or is this a cut it out and start over kind of problem?
    Name:  drainmove.jpg
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    Here's what I'm thinking
    Name:  drainmove2.jpg
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    Last edited by JuanSigned; 02-11-2011 at 07:20 PM.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    First of all, why glue the trap up before setting the tub?

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The fewer bends the better.
    After the last joist, use one 90 bend.
    Not two 90 bends like you have drawn in red.

  4. #4
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    The fewer bends the better.
    After the last joist, use one 90 bend.
    Not two 90 bends like you have drawn in red.
    One 45 a couple of feet back in place of the double 90 sweeps would be better than the two 90 bends shown and still better than one 90 after the last joint. Around here a plumbing inspector would never allow a side bend without a drop. I always had to roll a couple of elbows.

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    You already have a hole in the joist for the pipe, why make another? Just cut the trap off, install a long sweep 90, then use a new trap. One possible problem could be that the copper line, and 2x4, is going to be in the way of the trap's location. WHY was the dimension missed by such a large amount? Was it put where the overflow should be and you are trying to put the trap under the tub's outlet hole? A picture of the tub and the recess where it is going might be helpful.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member JuanSigned's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    You already have a hole in the joist for the pipe, why make another? Just cut the trap off, install a long sweep 90, then use a new trap. One possible problem could be that the copper line, and 2x4, is going to be in the way of the trap's location.
    The 2x4 is the mount for a ceiling fan below. It would be a bit of a pain to redo, but could be done. Moving the supply line is the least of my worries, easily done if needed.
    WHY was the dimension missed by such a large amount? Was it put where the overflow should be and you are trying to put the trap under the tub's outlet hole? A picture of the tub and the recess where it is going might be helpful.
    Why was it missed Well I measured off of the drawings provided by the manufacturer to the drain hole instead of the overflow. (my mistake) Then when the tub was delivered it was obvious we had mis-measured how far we wanted it from the wall.

    The pictures show the tub where we DO want it. The tape measure is placed roughly where the center of the overflow would be. The piece of pipe with the yellow cap has not yet been glued in. Name:  tub2.jpg
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  7. #7
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Moving it over with a 45 would require you drill another hole in the floor joist but you could scab some 3/4" plywood on both sides of the joist to strengthen it. The 2x4 cleat and copper pipe should not get in the way from what I can see. You can always turn the drop 90 that goes into the trap to get the bottom of the trap to clear the 2x4.

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    Journeyman/Inspector Inspektor Ludwig's Avatar
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    I don't know what code you're under but it looks like you've got a really long trap arm. UPC requires 1 1/2" trap arms to be no longer than 3' 6" developed length. How picky is your inspector? I'd just cut off that trap and use a sweep to get over there. Never underestimate the power of dry fitting.

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    DIY Junior Member JuanSigned's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inspektor Ludwig View Post
    I don't know what code you're under but it looks like you've got a really long trap arm. UPC requires 1 1/2" trap arms to be no longer than 3' 6" developed length. How picky is your inspector?
    The inspector is me and I'm pretty picky. The length from the end of the trap to the vent is 3' so its close to the limit but not quite there yet. (which is good, because I did pay a pro to do the job. I'd be ticked if he didn't do it to code.)

    I'd just cut off that trap and use a sweep to get over there. Never underestimate the power of dry fitting.
    OK, three guys all saying the same thing, long sweep 90. That's what I'm going to do.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    It seems odd to me that you say you measured for the drain hole instead of the overflow and the trap looks like it would work fine with the overflow...? In the last 2 pictures the tub is where you need it to end up?

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    DIY Junior Member JuanSigned's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlarrivee View Post
    It seems odd to me that you say you measured for the drain hole instead of the overflow and the trap looks like it would work fine with the overflow...? In the last 2 pictures the tub is where you need it to end up?
    In the last picture with the tape measure I need to move the drain about 6" up. I went to the store and bought 22, 45, 60 and 90 degree sweeps and no combination of them will to go from the trap to the drain in the space I have to work with. I think the best choice is a 90 sweep after the last joist. I have just enough rise left to keep 1/4 per foot slope going to the tub drain.

  12. #12
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Is this not how you're planning on doing your overflow/drain?

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member JuanSigned's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlarrivee View Post


    Is this not how you're planning on doing your overflow/drain?
    Yeah, pretty much, and the end of the overflow is about 6" north of the P trap.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Sometimes it's easier to install the tub drain first, and then run the pipe and p-trap to that.

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    DIY Senior Member Briandl's Avatar
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    Doesn't make sense to me, but you seem to have a good enough idea of what's going on.

    In the first pic it looks like it's in the right spot, in the second it looks like it's six inches off, but your explanation of measuring for the drain hole instead of the overflow doesn't make sense, if you did you'd have to move the drain six inches down, not up.

    ??

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