Example, taking the valve off the Pyrolox filter is not going to pull the DT up (but you mistakenly think it will). The bottom basket is very unlikely to be blocked up (but you think it probably is). But the Pyrolox is, and the only way to see if it is, you dump it out of the tank. Which makes it very easy to then remove the DT and look at it. When you dump it the gravel underbed will come out mixed with the mineral and you won't be able to separate the two so you'll have to solve that problem before putting the filter back together. Usually it's best to buy new of both replacing the old.
And when yer all done, the amount of chlorine you are using is not going to kill IRB or oxidize much if any iron or H2S gas to speak of and within months the new Pyrolox will be like the old is now and you'll be looking for a new solution while being substantially poorer and more frustrated. And I may still be here to tell ya "see, I told ya so".
BTW, I have a basic understanding of how an iron filter uses a micronizer to aerate and oxidize the iron so that it can mecanically filter it. Now a system with micronizer should also have a tank with air volume control to properly vent off the air and other gasses. The OP should not be passing gas through the filters.
Last edited by LLigetfa; 02-11-2011 at 10:13 PM. Reason: typo
That right there explains the problem with most iron filters. Trying to use a pump to encapsulate air into a tank thats ment to remove any air from itself during cycles. It's kind of like trying to sell the advantages of a square wheel it will work in theory and do something for a short time a cost you a lot and then breakdown and destroy everything down stream from itself. This is the main reason why you don't see many people who actually have to stand behind their product trying to push a lot of these units they are troublesome and more often than not you can fix your problems with a softener that has the proper resin and size with out all the fancy pumps and ludicrous name branding like terminox, iron buster, etc... Mr. Snakes you have the same problem that a lot of other people have and it's very easy to remedy if you do it right the first time. Like Gary and I mentioned before aeration is your best bet first then oxidation with chlorine then carbon and then a water softener. These are tried and true methods for removal of the contaminants you have mentioned. These methods have been standard in our industry not because they have a catchy name or that they are distributed through a special dealer but because they work. And with a little know how and some proffesional advice most anyone with some DIY knowledge can implement them. You say a holding tank and a second pump are too pricey but you keep on with that system and five years from know come back and let us know how much money you wasted on these gimmics.
If the iron system is not up to 100% then the softener will get to deal with left over of the iron filter.
If the chlorine is high enough then the resin bed will become impacketed or not let water pass..
Beads will no longer be beads but more like a sediment that water can not pass.
Any build up in the top of the tank will go to drain during backwash.