Toilet flange issue.

m3rdpwr · Feb 4, 2011

So before the rotting floor was replaced in my bathroom, the toilet flange sat above the tile floor and I never had an issue that I remember.

When the new subfloor and tile was installed, the toilet flange was flush with the floor.

Twice now I have had to replace the wax ring due to my own doing.

This second time I was in a leg cast and bumped the toilet good and the toilet shifted.
Both times I thought I had tightened the bolts enough, but I guess not.

Should I use a double height wax ring this time?

Or should I get a flange ring to raise the height of the flange rubbing some wax between the ring and the flange?

I'm sure the difference in flange height has to be causing some issues.

I obviously don't want to overtighten the bolt and crack a very expensive toilet.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

As soon as I saw the toilet shift I was praying it wouldn't leak, but I see the grout around the toilet wet so I may have to replace it before me cast comes off.

Thanks again.

-Mario

Cacher_Chick · Feb 4, 2011

If the flange is truly flush, it will not cause a problem if the toilet is properly set and bolted down. Anytime a toilet is allowed to move, the wax seal will likely be broken.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

m3rdpwr · Feb 4, 2011

Not sure what to do than.

I'll buy the double thick wax gasket this time around.

And maybe grow a backbone and tighten the bolts a wee bit more.

Just annoys me that when I put this toilet in 7 years ago, it never had the problem.
Now with the new floor and height, it has happened twice in 2 years.
Probably would happen more if I had a cast more often or stumbled in drunk.

Thanks.

Gary Swart · Feb 4, 2011

If the flange is flush, a single wax ring should be enough, but a thick ring won't hurt. Do not use one with the plastic funnel, they tend to cause problems and even if they don't, they are unnecessary. When you set the toilet on the wax ring, use your body weight to compress the wax. You should not have to pull the toilet down with the flange bolts, at least any significant amount. The bolts just help prevent the toilet from moving. Once the toilet is set and bolted down, caulk around the sides and front. The will also help keep the toilet secure and prevent "moisture" from wicking under the toilet an causing odor.

m3rdpwr · Feb 5, 2011

Bummer, the only thick rings have the inserts.

I'll give it another go. I bought two rings just in case.

Gary Swart · Feb 5, 2011

Maybe where you shopped didn't have the thick rings without wax, but they are made and available. I'm not convinced that you need a thick ring. If it was mine, I use a Fluidmaster waxless ring. It would do the job. If you do this, disregard the directions in the box. Put the ring on the toilet first, then set it down on the flange. Much easier.

m3rdpwr · Feb 5, 2011

I went to Home Depot as I had a credit, otherwise I go to Lowe's normally.
Both are a short distance from my home.
HD had a house brand, not sure what Lowe's carries.
Although the package said 40% more wax than "x" brand.

Waxless? Do you mean the rubber ones?
I heard those were aweful, if that's the one you mean.

Thanks.

Jadnashua · Feb 5, 2011

Most codes require that the toilet be sealed around the front edges. One product that is recommended is Polyseamseal, since it can be removed when needed. Adding this after you've reset the toilet also aids in keeping it in place.

Gsalet · Feb 5, 2011

Is the toilet sitting tight to the floor? I mean make sure there is no high spot that will cause the toilet to become loose. sometimes you need to shim the toilet

m3rdpwr · Feb 5, 2011

Hey guys.

I thought a sealant wasn't advised in case it did leak you would know before it rott the floor out.
Did I understand incorrectly?

Cacher_Chick · Feb 5, 2011

m3rdpwr said:
Hey guys.

I thought a sealant wasn't advised in case it did leak you would know before it rott the floor out.
Did I understand incorrectly?

Only caulk the front half of the toilet- this will allow any leakage to exit from the back half so that a leak will be known.

Gary Swart · Feb 5, 2011

I don't know from whom you heard the waxless seals are no good, but that is not correct at all. These are very good especially for a flange that is a little low or one that is not completely level with the floor. On the subject of caulking, some local codes want the caulk to run around the entire toilet, others want the back of the toilet left uncaulked. There are a couple of reasons to caulk. First, the caulk will help solidify to toilet to the floor. The other reason is it prevents male urine that misses the toilet bowl from wicking under the toilet and causing odor. I prefer to leave the back open so if the seal ever leaks, you might discover it before it ruined the floor. You should follow your local authorities rules on this.

m3rdpwr · Feb 6, 2011

Gary Swart said:
I don't know from whom you heard the waxless seals are no good, but that is not correct at all. These are very good especially for a flange that is a little low or one that is not completely level with the floor.

Hey Gary, what you posted in not the same as I thought.

I googled the gasket you mentioned.
Throw away the instructions meaning what?

-Mario

EDIT: I found the directions and it mentions there may be problems if the drain has a 90 degree bend and I know mine does shortly after goind under the floor.

So I will pick up the waxless ring, but I may not be able to use it.

Gary Swart · Feb 6, 2011

The directions for install the waxless seal tell you to put the lower end of the seal into the flange and then to use a cardboard form (included) to set the seal on while you lower the toilet into place. The pros advise you to just put the top end of the seal on the horn on the bottom of the toilet and then lower the toilet.

m3rdpwr · Feb 7, 2011

Thanks Gary.

Picked one up yesterday, although the design looks a little differant from the manuals online.
Perhaps a revision made.

-Mario

m3rdpwr · Feb 8, 2011

So I did some real close investigation on the floor near the toilet. lol

I notice on the back side corner that the tiles aren't all leveled really well with each other like my old floor.
Either that, or something weird is up.

So, I think the best course of action is to use the waxless ring and possible shim or use that poly-blah-blah mentioned earler.

Thanks all, I'll let you know what happens when a man in a cast attemps to replace a waxless ring on a power assisted flushing toilet. lol

-Mario

Toilet flange issue.

Users who are viewing this thread

m3rdpwr

Member

Cacher_Chick

Test, Don't Guess!

Sponsor

Paid Advertisement

m3rdpwr

Member

Gary Swart

In the Trades

m3rdpwr

Member

Gary Swart

In the Trades

m3rdpwr

Member

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

Gsalet

George the Plumber

m3rdpwr

Member

Cacher_Chick

Test, Don't Guess!

Gary Swart

In the Trades

m3rdpwr

Member

Gary Swart

In the Trades

m3rdpwr

Member

m3rdpwr

Member

Similar threads