Relocating Closet Flange Help

Hi Everyone; I need your help in relocating a closet flange. The current flange is a little over 14” from the finished wall, and I need it to be 12”, plus I need to move it over 3”. The biggest problem I am having is getting it closer to the wall because there is a sanitary tee that connects a 1.5” shower drain and sink drain, directly behind the closet flange (which prohibits me from moving it closer to the wall). I have attached pictures because I really cannot explain what I am dealing with.

My idea is to connect the shower and sink drain together and run a new 1.5” pip across the ceiling, down the wall and then use a sanitary tee to connect it to the vertical 3” pipe. Please let me know what you think and what I need to do to ensure it is done by code.

Thanks!
-Ed

Using a "street Y" into the sanitary tee, instead of the "hubbed" one that is there, would solve your problem the easiest way. Your "hard" part is going to be to remove the pipe from the tee.

Hi HJ,

Thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately I cannot find the "street wye" fitting anywhere in my area. Would the plan that I stated above work, or is it seriously flawed?

Can I use one of these? I would put it vertically against the back wall, connect the tub/sink drain to the 2" side inlet (using a 2" to 1 1/2" flush bushing), I would connect the closet flange with a 90 to the 3" sanitary hub, and then connect the vent and drain to the top and bottom hubs...

anyone...?

quick answer to your side inlet T is... yes... you can make that work.

Or you could use a Toto toilet bowl with the 14" Unifit and pull the bowl closer to the wall by 2"
It depends on where you want to spend your time and money; shifting the plumbing, or changing the bowl.

https://terrylove.com/wc/unifit.htm

On of the problems is that he said he also has to move the toilet 3" sideways, which means he has to do some replumbing. One of my replies must have "gotten lost" because I mentioned that he could just disconnect the drain from the "Y", then continue it to the wall and down to a "Y" in the vertical line, but that the "cottage tee" concept would also work as long as he did not rotate it to accomodate the 3" sideways shifting of the toilet.

hj... i was going to do exactly that... disconnect the 1.5" drain from the horizontal wye, run it to the wall and then connect it to the vertical 3" drain using a new wye.... however this will not work because the hubs on the wye fitting are too "fat" and stick out past the studs, which would really bow the drywall...

that is why I am curious about using the sanitary tee w/ side inlet and connecting the tub/sink drain to the side inlet; i read where someone else posted that the inlet on that fixture can only be used as a vent and not a drain; is that true?

That fitting is how we connect MOST of our bath/shower drains in new buildings. So your plan is acceptable. However, there is a good possibility, because of where the 2" drain is located, that you will have to lower the tee to the point where ITS hub would also be inside the lower wall.