Wall-mount tub filler

**DavidTu** · 04-13-2012, 08:30 PM

I believe the tub filler at this link can be wall-mounted. The instructions can be accessed via a link from the link as well as the schematic.

Am I correct in thinking these can be wall-mounted to drop-ear 90s? How would you recommend tightening these up w/o damage to the finish?

One other thing: notice in the pic (see link) the "dog-legs" offsets between the valve and the escutcheon cant at an angle? In the case of a wall-mount (rather than a tub mount) those dog-legs are going to have to be exactly vertical, are they not? Because in the wall-mount case we're screwing in the dog-legs to the wall first and then we have to mount the valve body afterwards--am I getting that right? So... although it says there is a variable spread of 3.5" to 8.5" that does not apply to the wall-mount case, the drop-ears must be exactly positioned equal to the valve separation, and the dog-leg offsets must be vertical, right? Or am I missing something?

LINK: http://www.****.com/itm/Wall-Mount-B...-/380397567607

**jimbo** · 04-14-2012, 05:54 AM

The dog legs allow you to mount this on centers which are approx. 6 to 8 inches apart. Give you the flexibility that the centers do not have to be spot on exactly 8:"

The dog legs are probably 1/2" female pipe threads. You will need nipples.

hj · 04-14-2012, 09:28 AM

You ARE missing WHY the faucet has the "offsets". If the pipes in the wall are about 8 1/2" apart the "offsets" will be horizontal away from each other. If they are 3 1/2" apart the offsets will be horizontal close to each other. ANY OTHER dimension they will be on an angle upwards, (or they can be downwards if you want the faucet lower), whatever is needed to position them at the proper spread, and may even be "assymetrical" if necessary to make the faucet level.

**jadnashua** · 04-14-2012, 06:38 PM

It can be tricky to get the spread just right while the thing is sitting level, but that's the reason for the doglegs...

hj · 04-17-2012, 08:01 AM

quote; It can be tricky to get the spread just right while the thing is sitting level,

Not really, all you have to do is measure between the to connections while you have a level on top of the offsets. You adjust the two offsets until they are level AND the proper distance apart, then you connect them to the faucet.

**BobL43** · 04-17-2012, 09:35 AM

Originally Posted by DavidTu

I believe the tub filler at this link can be wall-mounted. The instructions can be accessed via a link from the link as well as the schematic.

Am I correct in thinking these can be wall-mounted to drop-ear 90s? How would you recommend tightening these up w/o damage to the finish?

One other thing: notice in the pic (see link) the "dog-legs" offsets between the valve and the escutcheon cant at an angle? In the case of a wall-mount (rather than a tub mount) those dog-legs are going to have to be exactly vertical, are they not? Because in the wall-mount case we're screwing in the dog-legs to the wall first and then we have to mount the valve body afterwards--am I getting that right? So... although it says there is a variable spread of 3.5" to 8.5" that does not apply to the wall-mount case, the drop-ears must be exactly positioned equal to the valve separation, and the dog-leg offsets must be vertical, right? Or am I missing something?

LINK: http://www.****.com/itm/Wall-Mount-B...-/380397567607

Your link has been broken by this website.

On the Clawfoot tub I just installed, the faucet attaches to the dog legs with a swivel nut on the faucet for each dog leg. My tub had the option when ordered, for either wall mount or tub deck mount. You get the correct dog legs according to the option you wanted.

As the others here have said, when you mount the dog legs to your wall nipples, you have to have your dog legs set to the correct angle so as to line up properly with the faucet, and you need to have them tiight enough so they don't leak at the wall nipples. Use some rags or padding around your wrench or pliers jaws so you won't damage the finish. Good luck!

**jadnashua** · 04-17-2012, 02:24 PM

There are three things with the doglegs: spread, level, and left-right/up-down centering...getting it just where you want it can be tricky. Getting it level is the easier part. On the last one I had, the offset was over an inch, so in theory, you might have as much as 2" left-right where you could still get it level with the needed spread. Getting it to fit so it is level AND exactly centered can be tricky.

**Hackney plumbing** · 04-17-2012, 02:33 PM

Originally Posted by jadnashua

There are three things with the doglegs: spread, level, and left-right/up-down centering...getting it just where you want it can be tricky. Getting it level is the easier part. On the last one I had, the offset was over an inch, so in theory, you might have as much as 2" left-right where you could still get it level with the needed spread. Getting it to fit so it is level AND exactly centered can be tricky.

Spread and level. Thats all there is once the pipes are installed in the wall and its time to connect the faucet.

**jadnashua** · 04-17-2012, 04:58 PM

If the supply pipes are close to the spread needed, you can rotate each dogleg through nearly 360-degrees, moving the whole faucet up/down/left/right. And, if they happen (not really likely) to be perfectly aligned, you can get the full 360. So, yes, it can be a little tricky getting it just where you want. Now, if you don't care about left/right/up/down, then yes, spread and level is all you need. The further apart the supply pipes are from 'ideal', the fewer options you have.