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Thread: Moving laundry from basement to garage

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member dbol's Avatar
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    Default Moving laundry from basement to garage

    I was wondering how I should go about running my drain line? I was planning on using a plumbing outlet box for my drain but I am not sure that will work to well. I am planning on putting my washer on the left and sink tub to the right.

    I want it to look neat and not just run the washer drain into the tub.

    If I run the drain in between the studs and in to basement where does the trap go? Or I can run it through the wall into the basement. About 18 inches off the floor I can drill a hole and run my drain there.
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  2. #2
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    The trap should be at the bottom of the standpipe, above the floor. It will also need a vent, which must go through the roof or into the attic to a point where it can tie into an existing vent through the roof.

    A laundry should also have a dedicated electrical circuit.

    Don't overlook that this kind of work requires a permit and inspection.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member dbol's Avatar
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    I have two dedicated outlet by the dryer which is to the left.
    Can I use a pro vent by the sink. I have used these many times in other remodels.

  4. #4
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbol View Post
    Can I use a pro vent by the sink.
    Using an AAV such as the one in your picture is generally frowned upon, and if it would be allowed would be best answered by your local plumbing code and/or inspector.
    An AAV also needs to be exposed/accessable, so installing a nice flush mount washer box would be kind of fruitless when the vent termination cannot be hidden in the wall.


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    DIY Junior Member dbol's Avatar
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    I plan on having all my work checked by my plumber and inspected. I don't think I will be using a washer drain box unless I can vent it through the roof. I may just drain it into the sink. I might be able to get a vent up through the roof. I'll have to check. When I bought the house the laundry was in the kitchen. Which is on the opposite side of this wall. Thanks for your help.
    If I do get a vent up through the roof can you use a washer drain and sink drain into the same line.

  6. #6
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbol View Post
    If I do get a vent up through the roof can you use a washer drain and sink drain into the same line.
    Here is another of Terry's pictures, showing one way to do a laundry standpipe and sink.


  7. #7
    One who lurks Basement_Lurker's Avatar
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    Use of a mechanical vent is unwarranted 95% of the time and so is very lazy and unacceptable.
    Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me? -Jack Handy


    www.blackbirdkitchenandbath.com

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member dbol's Avatar
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    I don't get how it is lazy. May be unacceptable, but lazy?

    If there are no other viable options and they are accepted by code what is the lazy about that.

    I am not putting it inside a wall.

    I looked to see if I could take it to the roof and may still be able to but may have a cook top vent in the way.

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member dbol's Avatar
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    Thanks for the washer and sink drain combination pic. That helps out a lot.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbol View Post
    I don't get how it is lazy. May be unacceptable, but lazy?

    If there are no other viable options and they are accepted by code what is the lazy about that.
    There is always a proper way of venting something. Usually its just "too much work" to make the repairs to finishes and run the proper vent...

    How is it anything BUT lazy?

  11. #11
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    The vent can run horizontally (with pitch towards the drain) once 6" or more above the flood rim of the sink, so it can go through the roof wherever it needs to be.
    There are very few situations where a proper vent cannot be run.

  12. #12
    DIY Junior Member dbol's Avatar
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    Major relief. I took out another section of plaster wall and found the old vent pipe that was disconnected. I should have no problems with the vent pipe now. There was a cap on it above the roof so I took it off and ran a snake down and found it was clear all the way through.

    I was hoping to just use a fernco and connect the new to the old. Or is that too lazy.

    I am running 2 inch abs does the vent also need to be 2 inch?

    Thanks, Doug.
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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    You can use a banded coupler, of which fernco is one brand.

    Because you are working in an attached garage, you will also need to make sure that the replacement wall board you install meets the requirements for a firewall. I believe 2 layers of 5/8 drywall will be required, but again, that would be something best answered by your local inspector.

  14. #14
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    If you only want to do what is "easy", "cheap", and "fast"... why even ask, you're just going to ignore good advice anyways...

  15. #15
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    The vent only can be 1-1/2". However, if the existing pipe you found is 2", I just stay with 2". Since this is above ground connection, be sure you use the banded coupler and not the plain neoprene sleeve with only 2 hose clamps. Those are only approve for buried work.

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