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Thread: Biasi Wood Boiler

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Irish1271's Avatar
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    Default Biasi Wood Boiler

    Have a new Biasi 3wood6 boiler.When the damper closes to shut off the air supply, water temperature continues to rise. All screws are tight and gaskets are new with the stove. The damper door closes at 175 degrees and water temperature keeps on rising. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    DIY Junior Member gmc8757's Avatar
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    How high would it climb to?
    How do you like the boiler so far? I actually just bought one today.

  3. #3
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    There is residual heat the the boiler and heat exchanger...until that heat is absorbed, the water can and will continue to rise. Sort of like taking a roast out of the oven - the internal temp will still rise for awhile to finish the cooking from the hotter exterior moving inwards. If you want your absolute highest temp to be lower, you need to shut off the control at a lower temp. Note the continued rise, and then adjust accordingly.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member gmc8757's Avatar
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    What's the general take on these biasi wood boilers? Do people like them for the most part?

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    DIY Junior Member Irish1271's Avatar
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    Default Biasi Wood Boiler

    Quote Originally Posted by gmc8757 View Post
    How high would it climb to?
    How do you like the boiler so far? I actually just bought one today.
    Other than having problems with controlling the water temperature, I like it. The temperature rose to 248 degrees and popped the pressure relief valve. Since then I've been keeping a close watch on it and only putting a few logs in so it doesn't get the water too hot. The only trouble is I'm having creosote build up. The only thing I can figure out is it's getting air through one of the doors. The distributor sent me new gaskets to put on the doors. I'll let you know how I make out. Let me know if you have any problems with yours.

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    DIY Junior Member gmc8757's Avatar
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    I'm really glad you like it. I do know someone who installed one and it burned so hhot the first day it cracked. Now hearing you say it's tough to keep the temp regular makes me a little scared of this thing.

    I would really appreciate it if you wouldn't mind chatting a little about it. They delivered mine on wed and my father and I will be installing it in the next few days. Would you be able to email me using my username for this forum @gmail.com I'd really like to hear about your burn times, amount of wood you stoke it with, dump zone etc.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member gmc8757's Avatar
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    Did you end up having a dump zone for when/if the electric goes out?

    I'm thinking of teeing into my first floor zone as a dump zone for when the electric goes out, the wood boiler is in the basement, so the zone will be above the boiler. A normally Open zone valve will be inline, and open on power failure letting the hot wood boiler water go up and lose heat on the first floor. The only thing I need to find out is if the circulator (mounted on the oil boiler) that is sucking the return side of the first floor zone will allow the gravity pushed water to flow thru it or not. It's a Grundfos FC so it does have a flow check valve built in.

    I guess the question is, does a Flow Control valve built into a circulator prevent water from being gravity fed in just one direction, or does it prevent it from being gravity fed from both directions.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member jmemory's Avatar
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    i have a 3wood4 installed for 2 years i added a electric 12v magnet in line with the chain so if the power go out the draft door closes giving me timt ot start my generatoe, i installed it in a hurry and did not install a dump zone(mistake will redo it this summer ,have 2000 sq ft and this will overheat my house

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member gmc8757's Avatar
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    I'm pretty close to you and Hopewell Jct.
    What burn times do you get from it? I'm still trying to get the right settings on it, I don't like the chain driven damper really, mainly because it sticks out.

    I ended up just unplugging my oil boiler burner, no need for it to ever come on, if the oil boiler temp drops, takes minutes to start the fire in the wood boiler and get it right back up to temp. If i ever leave for more than work any day, I'll plug it back in.

    Only thing I don't like is, i fill it in the morning, come back from work and have to start the fire again because it is completely out. I would only use one match a year with my timberline woodstove, thing could go a day without needing to start it back up...throw a piece of wood on it and it fired right back up.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member jmemory's Avatar
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    i set up a relay so when my wood boiler gets to 145 it starts to circulate and turns off my burner motor only when the fire dies down my burner comes on automaticly 4 to 6 hrs depending on the wood email me at jeff387@optimum.net

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member Spidy67's Avatar
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    Default biasi

    I have a 3 wood5 and i love it mine closes up at 150 deg. you have to adjust the draft door so it doesnt close completely, if it does the creasote will run out of it. i set the temp high to 200 deg. then it will force the boiler to dump the heat to the house. I was curious about burning coal since these will burn either. i have never tried it but im thinking of giving it a try.

  12. #12
    DIY Junior Member madwar's Avatar
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    I have a new Biasi 3 wood-6 that has too much creosote building up on the loading door to the point of pulling off the gasket when opening the door because it is so sticky. My wood is dry hardwood and I have been burning wood for years. but this stove is giving me problems I have never experienced before
    Any suggestions?

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