Min-mod on the Alpine 150 is 30KBTU/hr in, or 27-28K out, which is about what the heat load is on my antique ~2000' house (+ ~1500 of unfinished basement) is in Worcester MA when it's +4F out (the 97.5% outside design temperature in my neighborhood). This place still has plenty of tightening & insulating left to do, with antique double-hungs + storms for most of the glazing, and full-dimension 2x4 studwalls with dense-packed cellulose in most but not all of it, and ~R20 of rigid board insulation over 90% of the wall area of the basement, but still with known as-yet untreated gaps in the attic insulation (probably averages R15 when you count the gaps.) If your rehab & windows are a lot tighter & higher-R than mine, odds are you're at a similar or lower heat load unless you have a bigger house, or you have central/northern NY design temp , not L.I. or Westchester type design temps. (What's your zip code? Description of the house, insulation, siding attic, size???)
That said, if you can get enough baseboard to deliver design-day heat at 120-130F output temps it'll still run VERY efficiently if it's burns are consisitently longer than 10 minutes. If a room by room heat loss had been done to determine the baseboard lengths you could just add a proportional amount to each length if running the min-mod test results in output temps over 140F (or more importantly, return water temps over 120F, which is the ~90% combustion efficiency zone.) Or, armed with your min-mod test numbers and the room by room heat loss and baseboard length numbers you could look for a hydronic heating designer (not a plumber or plumbing & heating installer, though sometimes they're the same person/company), and see where it's best tweaked from a design point of view.
In very rough terms the multipak 80 delivers on the order of 250-300BTU/foot with 130-140F output, 110-120F returns, which means you'd need something like 100' total to be able to deliver the minimum modulated output with 130F water. If you have at least that much, you can get there from here tweaking the flow (with a ball valve or multi-speed pump) and min temp programming. If it turns out you need more heat than min mod at design outdoor temps you can bump it up, but otherwise setting the ODR curve to about the same as the minimum temp (if it'll let you), will get it to run in on/off mode at or near the minimum fire, and the hysteresis of the wall thermostat along with thermal mass of the house will determine the actual minimum burn length. The lengths of the burns will increase with the actual heat load, and could be hours long when it's very cold out, even if it's only 10-15minutes every couple of hours when it's 50F outside. Getting it to fewer than 20 burns/day would be good for efficiency, getting it to under 10/day would be GREAT. A "right sized" mod-con with outdoor reset can be tweaked to deliver fewer than that when serving a single-zone system, but it's not substantially more efficient when the cycle numbers are that low.
When all else fails, 20-40 gallons of buffer tank in series cures a world of cycling ills. 100' of 3/4" pipe is only a couple of gallons- there's not much thermal mass there. Adding buffer tanks to low-mass systems is a very common strategy, particularly (but not exclusively) when the system is multi-zoned with some smaller zones to serve. Sometimes it's just the easiest/best way to get there.
Running a mod-con at a fixed but condensing temp means you're not really getting much out of outdoor reset, but generally speaking ODR doesn't buy you a whole lot with fin-tube when it can deliver design day heat at temps <140F- it'll run between 88-92%, most of the time. With some types of radiant floors it can buy a bit more, with slabs it can put the average efficiency above 95% pretty easily.