Several questions on bathtub faucet replacement

Hi there,

I'm trying to replace the shower/bathtub faucet in the bathroom. I realize that there is wonderboard behind the tile surrounding the faucet.

I have not done patching on a wonderboard before. I wonder how to cut up the surrounding area. Is a circular saw with a diamond blade the way to go--to cut thru' both the tile and the wonderboard?

Also, when I put a replacement piece of wonderboard in that area, I wonder how to add support for the board.

On the left and the right edge I would get to the studs on each side and screw the new board in.

Along the top and bottom edges of the new board, I wonder if I would add a piece of plywood behind the old and the new board and put screws in for the support--just like if I were to add support for a regular backerboard?

I suppose I don't need to put tape along the joints for a wonderboard--since I am going to put new tile over it -- Or do I?

Also, among these three faucets, I wonder which one is more reliable--in particular, the material (and the cartridge):

Price Pfister: http://www.*********.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Delta: http://www.*********.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Moen: http://www.*********.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Feel free to recommend better ones.


Thanks.

Your links have been "broken", but usually I prefer the Delta 1700 series, but it is just a personal preference, as will be any other recommendation your receive. Ask three plumbers and you could get three different replies.

I think taking a circular saw and diamond blade to a shower is way to big a mess. If you can't access from the rear, then I would remove the tiles individually by scraping out the grout lines with a carbide grout scraper, then knocking the tiles out one by one with a cold chisel. They will break. Once you get down to the cement board, you can cut score it with a utility knife, and then "worry" out the pieces. Yes, you will have to figure out some blocking to support it, and the tile patch will never "look" quite right.

Thanks much for the recommendation on how to take out the tile and the wonderboard area.

On the wonderboard, I wonder if I need to apply some sort of patching 'compound' (some sort of cement/concrete?) along the edges of the new/old board.


These following are the models of the faucets I have in mind. These aren't the higher priced products. The main thing I wonder is whether the cartridge is reliable--less prone to leaks.

(Product IDs from Home-Depot)

MOEN Adler Single-handle Tub and Shower faucet: Internet Product Sku: 242911

Delta Classic Single-handle Tub and Shower faucet: Internet Product Sku: 865914

Price Pfister Pasadena Single-handle Tub and Shower faucet: Internet Product Id: 202044655

Look into a remodel plate and use it's cutting template to make a hole. Doesn't have to be pretty as the remodel plate will cover it. This will give you enough room to replace the valve. Then the plate goes on, then you mount the new valve's eschution plate to it. Depending on the tile, some can be cut with a rotary tool like a RotoZip and a tile bit. Some can't. You can sometimes drill a series of holes with a carbide bit, then use a chisel to break in between. Again, depends on the tile. If it is a porcelain or hard ceramic, forget it. If it is an older bisque type tile, it's fairly easily cut. Most companies make the remodel plates and they come in different finishes and shapes. The last one I used was a Delta unit, but they are interchangeable (i.e., not brand specific).

Wonderboard is a particular brand name of a type of cement board. It is not waterproof and must be coated with Redguard or a similar product if you use it in a tile shower.

If there is any way to access the shower valve from the other side of the wall, it would be highly recommended to go that route.