TOTO Vespin II Expectations vs TOTO Carlyle

[Arlington22207]

We're remodeling a small bathroom in an old house and due to the positioning of the bathroom door I really need a compact model. The rough-in is currently 14 5/8" to the studs. The finished wall will be at least 3/4" to 1" since we are doing tile wainscoting on the walls, leaving a rough-in of only 13 5/8" to 13 7/8".

Although the floor is currently exposed the old flange is in fine condition and cannot be moved closer because a joist is right next to it and I don't want to compromise that.

Thanks to this site I found the perfect solution to this problem, a Toto toilet that accepts the unifit adapter. Based on many postings here, it appears that the short rough-in should be OK at this distance although we might end up with the toilet right up against the wall.

Based solely on appearance, my wife picked the Vespin II and the Carlyle out as potentials. Other than the below thread I haven't found much at all posted about the Vespin II toilet:
Terry Love Vespin II Product Review Thread

The Carlyle seems to be well-received and has a strong flush performance. What about the Vespin II? I admit to being a bit wary of the 1.28 gpf. Can I expect the flush performance to be similar in these two models?

Also, the Carlyle is a one-piece unit and the Vespin II a two-piece. We think the 2-piece looks a bit more traditional, which we like. Are there any technical positives and negatives to a 2-piece versus a 1-piece toilet?

I assume a 2-piece always has a greater potential to leak but I've only had 2-piece toilets for nearly 40 years and haven't had a problem.

Would either of these toilest handle the shorter rough-in better for some reason?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[jadnashua]

I have a Vespin and a Carlyle, and performance wise, I don't see a difference. These are not the newer II style. In theory, the Vespin should perform a little better since the tank is taller...the further the water falls, the more potential energy available. I wouldn't worry about a toto with the 1.28g flush...they work fine from what I hear. And, basically, if you change the flapper valve (get one without the float), it will use more water, if you ever decided it needed it (which it shouldn't). A one-piece toilet has fewer nooks and crannies that can get dirty from splashes, etc. It's a little intimidating tightening the tank down the first time to get it tight, but as long as you do it gradually, and evenly side-to-side, you shouldn't break anything. A one-piece is harder to set since it is heavier (this assumes you don't install the tank until the base is in place with a two-piece). Other than that, it's style, and preference. the one-piece costs more since if for some reason something goes wrong, they have to scrap more.

[Arlington22207]

Thanks for the reply, Jim.

I know this has been discussed before but do you (or anyone else) forsee a problem with the rough-in? I calculate that it will end up being (best case) a 13 1/2" rough-in from the finished wall. I know the spec sheet shows a 3/4" gap and I've read on here before that there is "some play" with the unifit adapter but...will it be enough?

[Terry]

The Unifit toilets stand off the wall 3/4"
So if you had a 12" rough unifit, it could be set at 11-1/4"
The 14" unifit can be set at 13-1/4"

The 10" could be set at 9-1/4"