Hi All
It looks like this thread got kind of grouchy! (Hopefully all in good fun!)
It also looks confusing. The writer, Ken, has lots of great responses from you folks. If you all don't mind, I'd like to offer my thoughts on the matter for Ken to also consider:
My Thoughts:
A) I absolutely would not share the heater circuit with a receptacle outlet. If you look at NFPA 70 you will see a prohibition against connecting the built in receptacles on a baseboard heater to the heater circuit. (I don't have the code book in front of me right now, but I believe it is 424.9) Logic would dictate that the AHJ would also object to a "not-built-in" receptacle outlet wired from the heater circuit. You can always ask for "Special Permission" (See 424.10, I believe it is)
B) Watch where you locate the receptacle outlet. Most, if not all, heater manufacturers prohibit receptacles directly above the heater. This is required for them to receive listing by UL or other testing agencies for their product. (And it is a safe idea. After time, the constant heat will deteriorate the jacket on SPT lamp cord. It will get dry, brittle and crack.)
If you do install the receptacle above the heater, against the manufacturer's requirements, you are have voided the listing by an approved testing agency- It's a code violation to install it without the listing. (And, perhaps an excuse for your fire insurance carrier to deny a claim.)
C) Also, you may need this receptacle protected by an Arc Fault Interrupter, depending what room it is in. If that's the case, you're probably going to have a less expensive project by running the receptacle's wiring from an existing circuit that's AFCI protected, if the capacity is sufficient for what you want to do with the receptacle.
If you have the receptacle protected by AFCI on the same circuit as the heater, I would expect nuisance tripping. It is hard to believe that AFCI's and line voltage thermostats would get along. When the bi-metal is cold, the stat's internal arcing could be a long enough duration to open the AFCI. <Great! Now I have to know. Time to experiment around a bit>
D) If you do get approval & plan to go ahead and share the heater circuit with the receptacle outlet, remember that the capacity may not be enough on the 20 amp circuit. Fixed electric heating equipment must be calculated as continuous loads. That's also in Article 424 somewhere. (424.3B? 4B?) If you're getting a permit, this may be an issue if the heater is close to the circuit's permissible total load (even if you don't plan to run the heater and use the receptacle simultaneously).
But, to be honest, in my own home I have a non-standard installation. There's an enclosed porch with one fixed electric baseboard heater & a line voltage wall stat. We rarely use it. ($$$$) The receptacle outlets, lighting outlets and such are NOT connected to the heater circuit- But this circuit is not "dedicated" for the heater. Also on it is a NEMA L6-20 (240 volt 3 Wire) receptacle at my experimental bench (not on the porch). No neutral is required for the receptacle's intended purpose. That receptacle is part of a group of power taps for testing & evaluation purposes. I know the load each time I use it. If the porch heater is on, I'll turn it off.
Is it 100% code compliant? I'd bet many people on this forum could find reasons that it is not, if we wanted to. (Starting right at 424.9, moving on over to 210.8A-5, etc) Is it safe for MY purposes? Yes. Would I leave it if I sell the house? No! Absolutely not. I'd eliminate the receptacle outlet.
Ken: I hope I was able to add some ideas for you to consider. I sincerely hope I didn't confuse you more. I'd leave the heater(s) on a dedicated circuit.
Paul