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Thread: Hydromatic Sewage Ejection Pump woes...

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member cdnhawk02's Avatar
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    Question Hydromatic Sewage Ejection Pump woes...

    Hello all,

    Long time reader, just signed up for my first posting. I searched and could not find any suggestions. Okay here goes.

    I have a SK50A1 Hydromatic Sewage Ejection pump...built 1989. Just recently it continued to run after a complete cycle. I of course, RAN literally to the outlet and unplugged both the pump and piggy back float switch. Knowing full well that these things will die(overheat) without water. After plugging them both into the outlet, it begins to pump. Enough already, from my extensive research on these pumps I learned that either A) Something is hung up on the float or B) the float is defective and needs to be replaced.

    I got the lid off the sewage basin, had to cut the pvc pipe since the orginal installer did not have a check valve or shut off valve. But at least the vent is installed right. After removing the pump and pressure washing the unit off... I attempted to unscrew the piece of PVC from the pump...no dice! I figured it has to do with the metal male connector they used on the end of the PVC. Any suggestions on how the heck to remove the piece of pipe and adaptor without destroying everything?

    I have cleaned up the pump since it had LOTS of hard water deposits on it, and I figured that might be part of the "holding power" of my situation.

    Before I even attempt to fix or diagnose this further I wanted to replace the PVC pipe and get a shut off and check valve ready to go...hence my situation above.

    Sorry about the long winded explaination.

    Thanks for your suggestions in advance.

    Jason
    Last edited by cdnhawk02; 12-20-2010 at 09:42 AM.

  2. #2
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what you are going for here...?

    If I went through the work (and mess) of pulling a 20+ year old pump I would be installing a new pump and float switches along with a new full-flow check valve and ball valve above the basin.

    If you insist on removing the existing threaded fitting, the pump will need to be securely mounted so you can get some leverage on a pipe wrench. You could also cut the pipe a few inches above the fitting and attach a new section of pipe with a regular PVC coupler.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member cdnhawk02's Avatar
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    Default Thanks for your advice and feedback!

    Hello,

    Thanks for your advice and feedback. I am only going this route, since the pump has been very realiable also I can not afford to replace the pump at this point in time.

    One quick question about your advice for "new full-flow check valve and ball valve above the basin". Do you have any recommendations for brand? Should I try and obtain the Hydromatic Check valve? How far above the basin should the ball valve and check valve be placed???

    I am a noob as you can tell, but I wan't to make a good tempo fix for now.. and do a replacement pump in the new year. With the least amount of mess.

    Cheers!

  4. #4
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    I like A.Y. McDonald check valves- they make silent check valves that prevent the "klunk" caused by the valve slamming shut at the end of each cycle. I ordered mine from a internet plumbing store, don't recall which. If you google the brand you will find them.

    I am not aware of any standard height, most installations I have seen are 12-24 inches above the top of the basin.

  5. #5
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Here are some good valves at good prices and easy to install

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...N=0&sst=subset

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