Reply With QuoteThe bend could be a foot below the floor and still be fine.
I like a 4x3 closet bend, then stub up a piece of 4" PVC to a real 4" flange on top of the finished floor.
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closet bend size. lowes and HD not long enough
The 3" PVC closet bends at Home Depot and Lowes are not long enough to reach up from the 3" PVC horizonal waste line to the finished floor level. They come up short short and are 1.75 inches below finished floor level.
My home is only 15 years old, so is the line too low or do I just need:
1) a different manufacturers closet bend that extends higher;
2) a flange with and extra long downward section.
HD and Lowes don't have either of these, so where can I source them?
3) a third option could be to put two 45 degree closet bends back-to-back, but that might extend too high.
The bend could be a foot below the floor and still be fine.
I like a 4x3 closet bend, then stub up a piece of 4" PVC to a real 4" flange on top of the finished floor.
Thanks much for reply, but how do you "stub up" a piece of PVC when you only have 1.75 inches of space to floor level to work with? Maybe I am just not envisioning it correctly.
A short piece of pipe. What is so confusing?
Yes, thanks, as soon as I wrote that I understood. I must have swallowed a late night stupid pill. Appreciate it.
I wasn't trying to be rude by the way. Now that I've read it over again, I could see how blunt I can be...
Okay, I'm laughing. Yes, a short piece of pipe can be glued between the two fittings.
If instead you have very little space, then you might use a spigot closet flange, and perhaps even cut some off.
1. Use a 4x3 elbow with the proper length pipe up to the floor.
2. Cut the riser on the bend so you have MORE than 1 3/4" to work with.
3. Use a coupling and a spigot closet flange glued INTO it.
4. Use a coupling, (cut off the top if necessary), a piece of pipe, and a slip on flange, (cut off the bottom if necessary).
No offense taken, as I appreciate the great advice on this forum. A great forum for diy-ers like myself to get great pro advice. By the way: I went at my pvc piping from underneath via a 12"x24" cut I made in the ceiling drywal. I put a coupling in the line, then a short piece of 3" PVC pipe to a 90 degree bend, then "stubbed up" to a tad below grade with the new tile floor. While doing this I also moved the rough in from 13.5 inches to 12 inches. I knocked up the old tile, chiseled a circle in the 1/4 inch hardie backer, and pulled it up. I then used a 4.25 inch hole cutter to cut the new rough in hole through the subfloor. Relocating the hole in the subfloor 1.5 inches of course left part of the original hole in place, as the two holes overlapped. I took the hole cutter and cut a hole in a piece of 8" by 12", 1/4 inch plywood, which i trimmed so about 1/2 the hole was left at the edge of the ply. I located the ply with the 1/2 hole up against the new drain pipe (leaving 1/4 inch gap) and then screwed it onto the subfloor from below, covering up the former drain hole. then I cut a hole in piece of 23/32 subfloor and pulled the round plug out of the hole cutting device. I nailed the round plug to a piece of plywood, and then with the hole cutter cut about a 1/3 moon size piece from the plug. This fit perfectly into the old hole and within 1/4 inch of the drain pipe rising up through the new hole. with liquid nails I glue the 1/3 moon shaped piece into place, and the 1/4 inch ply below it held it perfectly. a rock solid floor repair with a perfect new hole 12 inches from the wall and the non-overlapping portion of the old hole completely filled and strongly. perfect. thanks for the advice. now i guess i need to go get a Toto toilet.
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