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Thread: To get new heads or just rebuild

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member keyman's Avatar
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    Wink To get new heads or just rebuild

    Hi, I have A set up that I installed my self about 6 years ago and I can use a hand. I purchased a system from this place in FLA and they have since gone under but the operations and website got purchased from another company that's honoring the original 10yr warranty (To a Point). My system operates just fine However, the seals around the piston are leaking during regen and it seems this is a common problem for fleck 2510 heads. Here is the system I purchased:
    Code:
    http://www.purewatertreatment.com/PDF/Manuals/PURE-TECH-2500-man.pdf
    The above served as a pre-filter because aside from sediment in the water we had high Iron and tannins. Soo, then after the filter I installed this softener:
    Code:
    http://www.cleanmywater.com/pure-tech-3000-64k-grain-well-treatment-system-fleck-2510-timed-3-4-inch-stainless-bypass.html
    finished water is in pretty good shape but I notice my o rings are leaking on regen. (On Both heads)
    They are not leaking alot but it seems it is pretty common and after doing some reading I will need to replace those O rings and spacers, possibly the pistons as well. The new owners agreed to send out a seal kit for each unit but HIGHLY suggest I remove each head and send them in for a complete rebuild (for 150.00 each + shipping).
    So, my question is this....
    If I just have them send out new seals I will need to order the tool to remove the seals right? Would it be best just to send them the heads as they suggest or would I be better off going with a newer head like the Clack WS-1 and gamble that I get another 10 years out of the resin bed and pre-filter?
    I Could prolly manage the seal replacement if need be but I would hate to buy a tool I will need 1X for 70 bucks

  2. #2
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    The removal of the seals and spacers can be done with out the tools for the removal and placement of the seals and spacers for the 2500 or 2510, just takes abit longer..

    If the tool could be rented what would you rent it for if some one had it for rent?

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member keyman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    If the tool could be rented what would you rent it for if some one had it for rent?
    I guess 20.00 would be fair.

  4. #4
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Both valves are worth rebuilding, the 2500 is a brass body , I have ones that I have turned from like what you have to a manual control out on the front..
    They are such good valves.. easy to work on save for taking out the seals and spacers... if you have large fingers , then it is a challenge..
    I take the valve body off the part that screws into the tank and work on just the body either on a table of on my lap...

    I go for the rebuild and keep things going, saves land fill .. but I spent years on my grandfathers farm... where you work with what one has on hand..

  5. #5
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    I may as well go for it. Perhaps I can squeeze the plungers out of them along with the spacers and seals. Figure 60 bucks in parts off the warranty should make it worth my while. Not to mention I sure hate the idea of going a week with no soft water while I mail them back for the rebuild.

    Thanks for the input.

  6. #6
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    There is another idea...
    Photo of the valves in question....
    You buy the reman valves, just the body w/out control.... core charge .. and send the valve bodies that you have when taken off and the remans put in place..
    Kinda like ordering a starter or other auto part that has a core charge.........

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