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Thread: Culligan Medallist Woes

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member ralphwolf's Avatar
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    Default Culligan Medallist Woes

    Hello everyone. I have been lurking this site among many others in a quest to repair my water softener. The softener continues to drain after it cycles through its processes.

    During my expedition, it seems that a seal pack should render my solution. I did replace the o-rings on the brine valve and cleaned up and relubed the main seal (seal pack assy) which looked okay. But, I still have the problem and probably should replace the seals on that assembly.

    Now, my trouble lies in the removal of the seal pack assembly and also the eductor.

    Seal Pack: the first time I took it out I had to call upon the Powers of Grayskull to pull that darn thing out. There must be a trick or tool to remove it. Please share those tips.

    Educator: After taking off the plate, screen and blue restrictor out, I can't seen to pull out the rest of the assembly. It has 4 prong on it but will not budge. I assume there is a trick to removing this too, to which I would enjoy the secrets.

    I assume the trick(s), if its not a special tool, that it has to be stopped in a certain cycle or something but I have not a clue.

    Thanks for any help.
    Last edited by ralphwolf; 12-14-2010 at 09:16 AM.

  2. #2
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Sounds like the seal pack will have to be replaced, some times it can be rebuilt , but often it needs to be replaced.

    When I have had to take one out of the valve..
    I remove the valve from the tank, then remove the front control face from the valve body, then remove the clip that holds the plug at the rear of the valve body.
    There is a socket that will just fit in the hole between the 4 little legs and the inside of the hole. Then you can use some thing to pound down on top to the socket, if you do not have a socket that will fit, then a screw driver handle that just fits inside those 4 legs and pound down. it is best if this is done on the corner of a bench or the like with the shaft of the piston sticking down..
    Questions?

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member ralphwolf's Avatar
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    Ugh! I didn't want to have to do that.

    Its funny how the Culligan manual says "Pull out.." like its some simple task.

    Anyways, to put it back in...reverse the scenario?

    Oh, what about that educator thingy. How do I get that out without destroying it?

    Here's another question? Does anyone know who makes the valve for the Medallist (bought about 2002-3)?

  4. #4
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    We are not talking about the standard culligan valve with the two legs that attach to the top of the tank?
    Brine piston over the main piston assembly?
    Metal clip in the back of the valve?
    I know that I seen culligan using a fleck 7000 valve.. but not sure what years they started and for what systems they are useing it on.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member ralphwolf's Avatar
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    Looks sort of like a 7000. From above it looks like a 2510. Plus, the piston is just a shaft with a rubber plunger...I suppose its Culliganized.

    The part I am referring to is under a metal plate right on top. It is removed by taking out 3 screws. Under that, is a gasket and in the hole is a blue injector looking thing and a screen around it. Under that is a brown piece that has some prongs that come up that hold that screen and injector. Per the Culligan manual, it looks like its should be able to pull straight up but it doesn't.

  6. #6
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    The culligan valves had the injector parts under a plate with 3 screws.. there is the injector housing that holds both a screen and then a little blue or tan nozzel... that valve at my last count had the metal horse shoe clip in the back that held a plug in place behind the main piston and cage assembly.
    That brown part will pull up, some times it takes a little ................ to get it to move and if one or more of teh prongs gets broke, don't freak.. it will be ok.

  7. #7
    DIY Member SemiHandyRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ralphwolf View Post
    The softener continues to drain after it cycles through its processes.
    Same thing happened to my Culligan Medalist. I had no confidence with a DIY repair job, and the Culligan guy stuck me $300 to fix it (lamented elsewhere here). No more Culligan for me.

  8. #8
    DIY Member JKERN's Avatar
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    No company sells just a seal instead of the whole kit when dealers buy them it comes in a kit so that is just something you have to deal with.

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