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Thread: Pump Problems

  1. #16
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    Exactly what type of fitting are you screwing into the pumps discharge?
    My guess is a male ("the screwing into" was enough of a hint) and it must be PVC to be able to be deformed enough to be blown out so my guess is a PVC MPT.

    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    are u using the same fitting over and over or are u replacing it each time with another.
    I think a deformed fitting can only be used once, am I right?

    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    If it did this before with the cast pump as well... maybe the main problem is the fitting used.?? Just throwing out possibilities.
    How about this possibility, the fitting has nothing to do with it and you (and the OP) need to find the cause of both pumps getting hot enough to deform PVC male fittings.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  2. #17
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    My guess is a male ("the screwing into" was enough of a hint) and it must be PVC to be able to be deformed enough to be blown out so my guess is a PVC MPT.
    i'm sure you are well aware of the multiple types of plastic and pvc fittings that have male threads. why assume? not that it makes alot of difference, i was jw. maybe its not a male adapter with a lip, maybe its a sch. 80 nipple and someone overtightened it into the pump? .. just asking questions, cool ur jets.

    I think a deformed fitting can only be used once, am I right?
    "The threaded part is "out of shape" so to speak like if it was heated".. i dont know whether op means the fitting, or the pump's discharge threads, or both.. so how could you?

    How about this possibility, the fitting has nothing to do with it and you (and the OP) need to find the cause of both pumps getting hot enough to deform PVC male fittings.
    there is that possibility.. i previously asked what the cutin/cutout pressure was. op said pump was shutting off. could be set to high? power problem? could be something else. what is your professional opinion with the information provided so far?

    BTW.. i dont NEED to do anything. my water system works excellent. i'm just trying to help out someone whose having a pump problem by asking questions in hopes to get closer to a solution, as its a topic i'm somewhat familiar with. what are you doing?
    Last edited by justwater; 12-05-2010 at 10:50 PM.

  3. #18
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    i'm sure you are well aware of the multiple types of plastic and pvc fittings that have male threads. why assume? not that it makes alot of difference, i was jw. maybe its not a male adapter with a lip, maybe its a sch. 80 nipple and someone overtightened it into the pump? .. just asking questions, cool ur jets.
    "Screwing into" says male threads. It doesn't matter if it is a nipple or male fitting, it is overheated and blowing out of two different pumps; one is cast iron. Replacing a PVC fitting with a metal one as you suggested or went along with doesn't cure the problem, it treats the symptom.

    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    "The threaded part is "out of shape" so to speak like if it was heated".. i dont know whether op means the fitting, or the pump's discharge threads, or both.. so how could you?
    The PVC fitting is the logical choice AND he says he replaced the fitting and it deformed and blew out again; on both pumps.

    The keyword is deformed. The plastic used for the pump body can withstand higher temps than PVC can. They are two very different types of plastic.

    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    there is that possibility.. i previously asked what the cutin/cutout pressure was. op said pump was shutting off. could be set to high? power problem? could be something else. what is your professional opinion with the information provided so far?
    Until the cause of the pumps overheating is found and fixed, there is no sense in looking at the possibility of other causes of his deformed fittings problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    BTW.. i dont NEED to do anything. my water system works excellent. i'm just trying to help out someone whose having a pump problem by asking questions in hopes to get closer to a solution, as its a topic i'm somewhat familiar with. what are you doing?
    To help out someone you need to be a better troubleshooter or your wasting his time and yours.

    If he doesn't find and fix the cause of the pumps overheating, I'm sure he will have a pump problem soon, and still have the cause of the overheating a new a pump.

    I suspect he is pumping the well down too far by the time he has watered 4-5 zones and/or the cycling the pumps on/off or no water is overheating the water and that then overheats and deforms the PVC fitting until it blows out of the pumps.

    Or he could pull the water level in the well down to a point where he has a suction leak allowing air to cause a loss of prime. Or he has a leaking foot valve or not as much water in the well as he used to have.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #19
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    If it's a shallow well jet pump the most common cause of overheating is due to loss of prime for whatever reason. Could very well be that he's pulling the well down past the pumps ability to "suck up" so to speak, in which case the impeller will continue to spin without moving water which in turn creates heat which will eventually soften any plastic fittings on or near the pump. One strange thing though is that the OP says the pump shuts off. My best guess is that the pump is pulling down and overheating, until the well recovers and then it shuts off. If it were mine ( or a customers ) I would start by changing out the effected fittings ( and going with brass or stainless off the pump is a pretty good idea because they tend to not loosen as much from vibration ) and then replace the pressure switch with one that has a low pressure cut off. That solves a couple issues in that if it goes off on low pressure he can be pretty sure he's pulling the well too low.

    Gbyall

  5. #20
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    no reason to leave this post if the other was deleted anyway.
    Last edited by justwater; 12-08-2010 at 12:58 PM. Reason: not sure, probably harassment

  6. #21
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    i didnt hear any words of wisdom on how he should address his problem.

    key word is "deformed"? ..OP never once used this word.

    i was thinking it is kinda weird that op hasnt mentioned having problems with the suction fitting.. you'd think surely it would loosen up from heat as well. pulling the well down sounds pretty good though. maybe op should unhook the discharge line and run the pump for a while into a ditch or something to see if it pulls the well down and catches air.. thats what i would do, but what do i know.

    **********************

    OK U WIN! **looks like GS has this well and pump forum covered. id rather spend my time on these few sites actually helping someone rather than arguing back and forth with a self proclaimed "use-to-be" well man (now gypsy). this site isnt much fun lately, so i think i'm over it. **
    Justin, I see you changed your mind and edited out your name and other business info so you can remain anonymous. Good decision, your posts here wouldn't be good for your local business.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #22
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    The problem is that the water is heating up because it isn't getting out of the pump. If it's running from a pump start switch the switch isn't cutting off on one or more zones. If it's on a pressure switch (with a tank) it should shut off when the pressure builds to the cut out point. Either way you have to find out why the water isn't getting out of the pump.
    Porky Cutter, MGWC
    (Master Ground Water Consultant)

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    Default Pump Problem

    Hi, found out the bladder tank was leaking after a week and so the pump would run longer causing the water to heat up. I returned that pump and replaced it with a Berkley (Sta-Rite) HNE jet pump 1HP with a 30/50 switch, a new tank (28psi) when empty. Now the pump runs zone 1 and 2 fine but 3,4 and 5 which are further away, the pump cycles on and off every 30 secs. or so when the zones are on. It does not cycle on 1 and 2 or when they are off. Should I adjust the pressure switch? If so which way?
    Thanks

  9. #24
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by holidayisle View Post
    Hi, found out the bladder tank was leaking after a week and so the pump would run longer causing the water to heat up. I returned that pump and replaced it with a Berkley (Sta-Rite) HNE jet pump 1HP with a 30/50 switch, a new tank (28psi) when empty. Now the pump runs zone 1 and 2 fine but 3,4 and 5 which are further away, the pump cycles on and off every 30 secs. or so when the zones are on. It does not cycle on 1 and 2 or when they are off. Should I adjust the pressure switch? If so which way?
    Thanks
    You need to find the cause of the pump cycling on/off.

    You probably have a blockage, some heads not opening etc.. Or the pump is putting out more water than the zones can use and it cycles on/off. Or, the on/'off is the thermal overload opening/closing due to not enough water, especially if you have run zones 1-3 already.

    Remove the pressure switch cover and when the pump shuts off, look at the switch points to see if they are open or closed. If open then it's the thermal overload, if closed look at the pressure gauge and see what pressure is on it, if 50 psi and it is falling, then we're back to a blockage.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  10. #25
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    Hi, thanks will take a look after work and post a update.

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    Default Update

    Hi, the switch points are open when the motor switches off. Thermal overload? What can I do?
    Also when I did this, the first time I connected the breaker, zone 2 came on by itself for about thirty seconds or so spraying water and then it shut off, weird?

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