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Thread: Pump Problems

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    Question Pump Problems

    Hi, I had a 1.5hp Starite pump and I replaced it with a Simer 1.5hp pump. After a couple of days the discharge pipe come completely off from the threading to the pump. The pump or the pipes have no cracks. The threaded part is "out of shape" so to speak like if it was heated. I replaced it and again the sprinklers work fine for a few days and then the same thing. It primes and shuts of initially. I have a pressure tank attached which was there before, so everything is the same except the pump???????
    Any help greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Surface or submersible pump?

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    hi, it is surface.

  4. #4
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    is this a simer with plastic head?.. try using a steel fitting into the plastic pump, then pvc to the steel. the steel male threads will make for a better connection into the fatigued female plastic threads.

    i'd rebuild that sta-rite before i went with another big box pump.

  5. #5
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    To heat the pump its running with water not moving out of the pump or running for hours without any, or just a bit of water in it.

    Better get a good book and watch the pump for awhile.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    The pump is not running dry. Just confused as to why this would happen? The old pump was cast iron and this is thermoplastic and the instructions say to use plastic fittings.
    Last edited by holidayisle; 12-05-2010 at 05:12 AM.

  7. #7
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Your deformed fitting says it got hot enough to deform; that is pretty hot.

    So your problem is why is the pump getting hot and Ballvalve gave you the usual normal causes.

    It doesn't matter what type fittings are used.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    Thanks all for your help so far. If a valve is defective and does not open during a cycle, would not the pressure switch turn the motor off since there no flow out from the motor??

  9. #9
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    It doesn't matter what type fittings are used.
    Spoken from a person who must not be familiar with plastic pumps. Take the plastic submersibles for example. I've seen a few of them loosen and spit out PVC threads on a drop pipe. U can pull them up, fix it, and it will do it again within a couple days. However, if u install a steel fitting into the plastic pump, then PVC to that, it never happens again. The type of fitting does matter in that scenario, I dont see what's so different about this, other than the pump is easier to access.

    Bottom line, it's a cheap pump, u might have to improvise on it some. If nothing else, when shopping for a exposed well pump, at least get a cast head. Problems like this won't happen.

    You are correct, being as how u have a switch and tank, (so long as all is working correctly), the pump should build up and shut off before any heat damage can be done.

    Maybe your cutoff pressure is set too high, and the pump is working overtime to reach it??

  10. #10
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    And maybe you need a low pressure cut out pressure switch too.

    Or to NOT fix the problem and shut off the hot pump, add a heat switch taped to the pump head.

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    The pump shuts off after priming, the problem occurs somewhere after zone 3 because I kept checking the pump on and off during zone 1,2 and 3. Everything looked good so I did not check 4,5and 6.

  12. #12
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    If your valves are prone to failure you must be sure the pump shuts off when they stay closed.

    for backup add a thermal switch: http://senasys.com/products/thermost...arter-inch.php

  13. #13
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    i'd be curious to know what psi the pump cuts on and off at.

    if tank pressure and switch is set correctly, is there really any other reason this would continually happen other than plastic head of pump is inadequate? starite didnt have this problem (although apparently it had some kinda problem because it was replaced).

    isnt the pump new? maybe you could take it back before the female threads on the discharge become unusable from blowing out the fitting multiple times.

    ..or just fix it again (according to instructions) with pvc... just be sure to put a ratchet strap around the pump head and pvc fitting, then tighten it down to the pump. lol.
    Last edited by justwater; 12-05-2010 at 12:34 PM.

  14. #14
    DIY Junior Member holidayisle's Avatar
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    Hi, thanks, yes it is less than a month old and I am thinking of taking it back and getting a cast iron one. The sta-rite one did do the same thing a month ago however the threads on the pump were worn and the fitting would not go in properly and so I replaced it. I have not had problems with the valves I was just looking for possibilities.
    The zones run in order and I did tighten it down all the way.

  15. #15
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    Exactly what type of fitting are you screwing into the pumps discharge? are u using the same fitting over and over or are u replacing it each time with another. If it did this before with the cast pump as well... maybe the main problem is the fitting used.?? Just throwing out possibilities.

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