DiY or No? Please help me decide. 350' 2hp replacement

I dunno Cary. I have a 1-HP set at 200' here on sch 80 PVC and set it with the Smeal. I tried lifting it by hand to see if I could and it felt very heavy to me. Not something I would want to deal with more than 3-4 feet.

What is your preference? Sch 80 PVC, Poly Pipe, or galvanized pipe?

Too bad there wasn't one of these in every rental store-

[video=youtube;hB_jzeU1Xgw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hB_jzeU1Xgw[/video]

I found two errors, so now I get 267 # and 32 gallons. It's a good thing I don't have a real job - I'd fire myself.

OK, here's what I came up with using 1.25 as the ID of the pipe. I don't have the chart in front of me but I have some charts somewhere. Just curious how we all came to different conclusions?


pipe diameter 1.250 inches
pipe area 1.227 sq inches
area per foot 14.719 cu inches/foot
gallons per foot 0.064 gallons per foot
tot gallons 22.301 gallons
tot weight 185.099 lbs

Cacher looks like we agree.

I just looked and see that ID of 1.25 pipe is 1.38" according to this source: http://www.woihouston.com/downloads/pipe_schedules_02.pdf

New Numbers work out to 225 lbs. So add in 50# for the pump and 50 for the wire and you're above 300#. Add in the buoancy and you're back down again until you get out of the water. Still a might bit heavy.

Good luck.

Here's my corrected spreadsheet

1.38 enter pipe ID dia in inches
1.50 calcd pipe area in sq. in
350 enter pipe length in feet
3.64 calc pipe volume in cu ft
27.19 calc water volume in gallons
226 calcd water weight in pounds

If you also know the OD we can figure the pipe weight using the PVC density, 1.38 to 1.41 g/cm3, with some numbers from these guys
http://www.onlineconversion.com/

Oh it is going to be heavy and slick! But if you want it bad enough, you can do anything you set your mind to. I wouldn't try 350' unless I had at least 4 strong guys to do it. High static water level makes it much lighter but, also makes it slick all the way out. Low static makes it more heavy but, not as slick. I have set a lot of pumps on sch 80 with brass or galv couplings. I always used the rig when I could. Sometimes you just can't get a rig in there, so you have to do it by hand. Also set short set subs on poly. I don't like poly on deep wells because you can't work it with a pulling rig. I have seen the "pullapumps" and "upsydazy" in action but have never tried one. I am all for anything that makes it safer. At the end of the day you are going to need your fingers, toes, arms, legs, etc.

Perhaps if you sucked the water out of the drop line with a vac or blew it out with an air compressor it would rise up out of the well [almost] on its own.....

That guy, get out your math book.

It's heavy. I would never pull 300+' by hand at once, that's insanity. U better find a very tough dude for that kind of pulling, and hope he has a twin.

If this were me and I didn't have any of the equipment i have, and was planning on doing this by hand... If u couldnt build a 20' tripod, I would pull it up by hand 1 joint at the time. Use a piece of steel plate with a notch that the pipe will fit in but the collars won't.. A makeshift pipe "dog".. So u can dog it off at the well head every time u pull up a joint, then use 2 wrenches (one to hold the collar and one to spin the pipe out of the collar (while it's dogged off at the well head of course). Probably need 3 guys, 2 to pull it up and dog it off, and another on a ladder or in back of truck keeping the pipe from falling over until u twist it out (kid could do this, as that kid has been me before). This would be your safest bet, gives u a break and it won't be as hectic. when u pull up that first joint, u'll be very happy u didn't try to pull another 330' without taking a break. I can think of very few people that have the power and stamina to nonstop pull 350' of filled sch. 80 with wire and a pump on the end. I am not one of them.. and I'm young and in great shape. just my .02 ..U can try it however u please.

Really, if the water level is high, and you pull slow and steady, they come up pretty easy. bouyant- floating. Making that first turn of pipe back to the ground could be interesting.

Using these dims
http://www.harvel.com/pipepvc-sch40-80-dim.asp
and 87 # per cu. ft. for the PVC density I think the pipe by itself weighs 142 #.

What a hassle.

YAY!!!! Today my Dad and I built a 14' "pyramid" out of 2x8's etc. Anyway took about 6 hours to build the rig and get the pump out. I will post pictures soon. taking it out in one piece was great advise thank you. with 3 pulleys and the load reduction we where able to easily manage the load. Brought it up 10' at a time and ran it up over a tree and back to the ground.

My 2hp well was destroyed by a massive ball of electrical tape jammed up in the intake area!! I got a 1.5hp pump from tractor supply. I will be dropping it in tomorrow.

Congratulations! I learn something new every day. Never tried to pull the sch 80 out in one piece but have done it many times with sch 40 pvc, especially if you have a tree handy.

Be sure you use the best quality 3M tape when making those splices. And it's always a good idea to look over your wire or replace it if there's any doubt.

Wonder where all the tape came from? Did you see any evidence that it came off the drop-pipe?

Probably didn't have to go over the tree. It will bend more than you think it will. Glad you got it out. Just remember when going back to have everything pre-taped and ready. Then don't let it sit down on the last coupling too hard or it will pop it off.

You need to buy Scotch #33 tape for the well, and their rubber splicing tape would be a good first coat too. That was a bit of china in your pump intake.

The installer saved 6 bucks on the install and cost you thousands.

Good job, wouldn't u have loved have pulled it with only ur hands rather than the tripod? Lol.

Valveman, it's not that the sch 80 will break. U have to have a descent arc or it will buckle in the connections, especially threaded MxF pipe.

Still say the could have pulled it by hand with some spring loaded grabber cogs, or a clamp block, so they could take a break.

I drill a bit undersize hole in a block of 4x6, split it on a bandsaw and hinge one end. A threaded rod and a big wing nut, or just a good C clamp makes it a quick pipe locker at any point, not just at the couplers. Works well for lowering 4" liner especially.

Pretty enginuitive ballvalve, a homemade quick clamp. I've also been surprised just how much a good pair of larger vice grips can hold up.

Who cares how many hundred lbs it weighs when using a tripod and probably a boat winch, block'n tackle, a come along or chain hoist hung on the tripod with a pipe hoop to hold the pipe from falling over while unscrewing the sections thing like in the video Cacher_Chick posted.

The last item on the page at the first link below. Drop pipe Vicegrip (DPVG at the 2nd link). I used one for PE pipe and I'll bet I could get one to work on PVC. No shock load of 1000#. You migt be able to rent one at a tool rental place; or talk to them and then buy one and resell it to them. Maybe rent one from a pump guy.

http://www.deanbennett.com/well-accessories-page47.pdf

http://www.deanbennett.com/pipe-tools.htm

http://www.campbellmfg.com/catalog/r05.htm

natopotato said:

6 hours to build the rig and get the pump out

My 2hp well was destroyed by a massive ball of electrical tape jammed up in the intake area!! I got a 1.5hp pump from tractor supply. I will be dropping it in tomorrow.

Click to expand...

So 12 manhours for 350'. Could one person have done it in one long day?

1.5 hp should give you about 6 GPM. Get a pump that protects itself against reasonably foreseeable hazards.