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Thread: New member's questions. pressure tank sizing

  1. #31
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    So the pump doesnt cycle every time u flush a toilet, or run more than a gallon of water like everyone does when they open a faucet. Now he'll be able to run like 6 gallons, and have the CSV to keep from cycling when steady water is in demand.. Sidekick would cycle the pump much more than the 19gal for every day water uses that isn't steady flow.. Basically common sense is why I prefer the bigger tank for residential use.
    Very good. So now can we put you down for a case of the 2-3 common sizes of CSVs?
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  2. #32
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    Everyone has their preferences, and i prefer to use at least 20gal tanks for residential in my business. i look at wells and systems every day, and I'll never be convinced that a CSV with 20gal tank will cycle just as much as one with a 4.4gal tank. reckon people get the whole family to flush toilets and run house water all without going more than a minute in between? Besides, does the sidekick even run 1 minute during a cycle? 1 gal drawdown tank should already have over 1/2gal in it when the valve kicks in at 50psi, right? and with that dinky tank, as soon as the pump kicks on, it's already made 50 psi immediately, so shouldn't a pump with csv and 1gal drawdown tank only run about 30-40 seconds during a cycle?

    Btw, thanks for the sales pitch but I currently have 20-25 csv's on the shelf in my shop right now. I really do use them quite often.
    Last edited by justwater; 11-23-2010 at 12:38 PM.

  3. #33
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    30 years ago I said “I will never be convinced” that a 100 gallon bladder tank will give the same draw down as a 220 galv. I was wrong!! We don’t learn from things that work the way we think they will. We learn from being proven wrong. I am a pump guy so I can talk about them. Pump guys are hard headed. Even when having been proven wrong by a few hundred other pump guys, I still have to prove it to myself. I am slow but, when confronted with the facts, I eventually come around.

    The really small tank wasn’t my idea but, after 18 years I finally gave in.

  4. #34
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    I am the new user from Quebec, excuse me my English please. So I have a new well about 140 ft and a new submersible pompe Groudfosse 10 gpm. My water is always dirty and I pompe it out. I asked my driller about it and his answer I must be patient and continue to pompe my water out but only very weak flow. It can be few months or even more, I'm very sad about it. There is another opinion that I probably need larger tank (actually it's 20 gal), maybe 48 gal will be good because my pompe will run less frequently and my water will cleaner because there will be less of turbulense in my well. Another opinion that I have to install one device and decrease amperage of my pompe for the reason that my pompe stay relatively calm and suck water from the well slowly. This will theoretically improuve the quality of my water.
    Once again, I can't clean my water after 3 weeks contunuosly pomping water out, the refill of my well is very slow (about 60 gal per hour). If I run water very quickly I have no water and my weel is dry. If water leaks slowly, after 24 hours it continues to leak and the well is not dry. I can't deep my well because my neighbor did it and he has sulfuric water now. My plumber not sure that bigger tank can help me.
    So, I need your help urgently.
    Last edited by anest; 12-17-2010 at 02:52 PM.

  5. #35
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    I would change to a MUCH smaller pump and consider a large holding tank to settle the dirt and then feed the house with another pump and your existing 20 gallon tank.

    Perhaps you can slow down water output to 55 GPM with a valve, and leave the existing pump in the well.

  6. #36
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Pumping out a low producing well just takes time. I have a low producing well that only makes 9/10s of a GPM. I hooked up a Cycle Sensor to automatically shut the pump off when the amps drop from pumping air. Then I set it to automatically turn the pump back on in one hour. I let the Cycle Sensor turn the pump on and off this way for about 3 weeks and the well finally cleared up.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballvalve View Post
    I would change to a MUCH smaller pump and consider a large holding tank to settle the dirt and then feed the house with another pump and your existing 20 gallon tank.

    Perhaps you can slow down water output to 55 GPM with a valve, and leave the existing pump in the well.
    What is your suggestion for a much smaller pump, maybe 5 GPM or another one?

  8. #38
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    that is possibility, look closely at the pump curve and specifications. Perhaps just slowing output with a simple valve will accomplish the same, allowing pump to run longer and not to draw well down to zero.

    The cycle sensor or franklin pumpsaver is a device that can allow you to adjust pumping times and "resting"times. You might want to get a better well man to fine tune your system rather than the original installer.

  9. #39
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    if I change my tank of 20gal to another one of 48gal, maybe it'll be better like reserve of water from my low producing well?

  10. #40
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    A 20 gallon tank only olds 5 gallons of water, a 48 gallon tank only holds 11 gallons of water. Not going to make much difference.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by valveman View Post
    A 20 gallon tank only olds 5 gallons of water, a 48 gallon tank only holds 11 gallons of water. Not going to make much difference.
    I understood that will be no important difference to have the reserve of water if I change my 20 gallons tank to 48 gallons one. I'm at the point to do it, can you confirm me if I really good understood you?

  12. #42
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    A larger pressure tank is NOT going to help.

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