Well water system up and running, here's the report:

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Designie

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Well, I finally have the entire water system hooked up and running. The system specs are:

1hp, 10 gpm pump at 210', 32 gallon pressure tank, 40/60 pressure switch.

I ran the system with one outdoor spiggot fully open. The tank will supply water starting at 60 psi for about 2 minutes, then the pump kicks on at 37 psi and takes 3 min. 15 sec. to fill the tank back to 60 psi. So about 3:15 on, 2:00 off for the pump. That's with one spiggot full open.

Being as this is my first time working with any of this, how does this sound?
 

Valveman

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At 40/60 a 32 gallon tank holds 8.5 gallons of water. Using that in 2 minutes means your hose is putting out 4 GPM. Refilling in 3 minutes 15 seconds means you’re your pump is putting out about 7 GPM at that head. Which is correct for a 1 HP, 10 GPM pump at 210’ and 60 PSI.

What this tells me is that you need to always use more than 7 GPM when running hoses or irrigation. This will keep the pump from cycling on and off. Because even though cycling on for 3.25 minutes and off for 2 minutes does not sound like much cycling, it adds up to 274 cycles every day, which is 100,000 cycles per year.

Of course when you run 7 GPM with the hoses, there is no pressure or water volume left for the house. So you can’t take much of a shower while the hoses are running. This is one reason I believe a Cycle Stop Valve with any size tank is better. The CSV would not let the pump cycle while using a 4 GPM hose. So you can run a hose and have ample water to take a shower at the same time.

The same 4 GPM hose that causes 100,000 cycles per year now, would only cycle 1 time if it had a CSV. Not only does the CSV increase the life of all the components in the pump system but, gives you steady, constant pressure in the house. A constant 50 PSI is much better than feeling the water pressure swing from 40 to 60 several times during a shower.

Having said all that, your pump system is acting normally for a pressure tank only system. It will give you an average pump system life of seven years and helps keep pump installers as well as pump/motor manufacturers in business.
 

Thatguy

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1hp, 10 gpm pump at 210'
At 60 PSI I get 62% efficiency for your pump at 7 GPM. It takes 0.62 hp to lift 7 x 8.3 pounds of water or anything else the equivalent of 348' in one minute.
Not bad, I guess.

With a motor as small as 1 hp the overall "wires to water" efficiency is probably 1/2 or 1/3 of this.
Does your pump manufacturer give the rated power input for your pump/motor combo?
 
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Masterpumpman

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Keeping it simple, everything appears to be working OK! To make it work better , extend the life of your pumping system and give you a constant pressure while taking a shower, install a Cycle Stop Valve. I promise you'll wonder why you didn't already have one!
 

Designie

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At 60 PSI I get 62% efficiency for your pump at 7 GPM. It takes 0.62 hp to lift 7 x 8.3 pounds of water or anything else the equivalent of 348' in one minute.
Not bad, I guess.

With a motor as small as 1 hp the overall "wires to water" efficiency is probably 1/2 or 1/3 of this.
Does your pump manufacturer give the rated power input for your pump/motor combo?

I don't really know what "wires to water" means, first time doing this. I can check out the pump manual for the rated power input, they are calling for a 25A breaker for the pump though.

It doesn't sound right to me.

What is your static water level and what type of pump do you have; submersible or jet and is the jet a single or two line?

The static water level is 30', it is a 4" submersible pump.
 

Ballvalve

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Enjoy your water and forget all the rest. It works fine.

With 30' water level, you might have used a smaller pump however.
 

Thatguy

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I don't really know what "wires to water" means, first time doing this.
The pump has an efficiency rating and the pump motor has an efficiency rating, so the overall pump/motor combo has a "wires to water" efficiency rating [which is not all that high for small pumps].
 
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