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Beginner Irrigation DIY Questions
Home built in the last few years... I have a copper half inch line coming out to an outside faucet (3/4 faucet). I am not going to attempt to run a new 3/4 copper (in the basement) until the spring, so i am just going to attach the system to the faucet temporarily via a pvc slip to hose thread.
The entire system is based on PVC SCH 40 (3/4 inch), and has 4 zones. I have 80 PSI coming from the faucet and about 12.5GPM. All heads are the same...Orbit Voyager 2 (3/4 connection, 3.7GPM@60PSI 2.6@30PSI)
Zones: 1=4 heads (90ft), 2=3 heads + 1/4 inch drip line (60ft), 3=3 heads + 1/4 inch drip line (130ft), 4=4 heads (80ft).
After blowing out the system for the winter via a 70PSI + 2CFM:
http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/winter.htm
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/crops/04719.html
I plan to just take the entire manifold into the garage for the winter.
I also plan on adding an AVB under each valve so to remove any vacuum issues when the valves turn on or off.
The major brass component below the faucet is a double check valve followed by a AVB (this may need to be changed over to a Pressure Vacuum Breaker
(http://www.lowes.com/pd_74193-18701-...cuum%2Bbreaker)
When running the new copper, I plan to run 3/4 inch copper with a female fitting and a pvc male with a master shut off valve on the copper.
The entire system is on a slight grade away from the house, and I plan on building a gravel bottom box in the garden down about 12 inches from the surface level with the highest point of all the zones.
Anyone have any suggestions? I'm still learning
Did you run all of your pipe yet? I would use 1" pipe as opposed to 3/4". When you do your permanent connection to the water line in the future then you will need a back flow device like the one pictured in your link. The connections to the heads in your picture do not really allow for any height adjustment of the heads. Usually you would use a tee with a riser pipe or use flexible "swing" pipe to set the heads at the proper height.
It is not a question of "might need to be changed to the pressure BFP" but rather it MUST be replaced with it. The two "screwed" street elbows, can articulate up and down to set the head at any height necessary, and is less likely to be broke off if hit with a lawn mower, or stepped on.
hj's got it...they do swing up and down, with the rigidity of the schedule 40 tight threaded connections, but if a car, tractor or a fatty steps on the head, the head will move up and down. In all of my research, I have found that flex pipe and the "swing" adapter to seem like the weakest link in the system.
In talking with another local pro, i have come to the conclusion that I will take back the double check valve, the AVB, and even the valves. I will now run a full blown watts Series 009 Reduced Pressure Zone Assembly and switch the valves out for valves with an anti-siphon valve built in.
The 3/4 is in the ground, with how my property is designed, the sprinkler system has a very limited growth potential and the distances are very limited. I only have the 4 zones and 3 or 4 heads per zone and i still get 100% coverage minus the back half acre field that still gets the first 50 feet coverage.
do you think that i should install an avb after each valve if each valve has an anti-syphon valve?
And do you think it is necessary to install an AVB or PVB immediately after the Reduced Pressure Type Backflow Preventer?
quote; I will now run a full blown watts Series 009 Reduced Pressure Zone Assembly and switch the valves out for valves with an anti-siphon valve built in.
You are designing the most complex and expensive system I have ever heard of. Not only are you using the "belts and suspenders" approach, but you are also wrapping a piece of rope or duct tape around your waist to keep your pants up. The 009 is NOT required unless your code specifies it. AND, if the valves have the antisiphon built in, you do NOT need any additional protection. The only reason for a pressure or reduced pressure valve is that the common antisiphon valves are NOT designed to operate under continuous pressure, which is the case when they are installed prior to the valves. AFTER the valves any atmospheric anti siphon valve, which is what the integral ones are, is satisfactory. BUT, they have to be installed at least 12" above the ground, and HIGHER than the highest head in the system. In any case, you only need ONE type of protection device between the sprinkler heads and your water supply system.
I was told by summit county, that the "2007 OHIO PLUMBING CODE" says that a "REDUCED PRESSURE BACKFLOW PREVENTER" is required.
without avb's or anti-siphon valves, can the manifold sit at the same level as the heads?
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