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Thread: Installation of Skirted Toto toilets -- a question

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    DIY Junior Member Herrada's Avatar
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    Default Installation of Skirted Toto toilets -- a question

    I have a question about the installation of some of the skirted Toto toilets, such as the Carlyle II, Soiree II, and Vespin II. The installation of these generally require the attaching a Unifit adapter to the floor with 4 screws. I am wondering if this is appropriate for all types of floors, and in particular mine. My bathroom floors are thick terracotta Saltillo tiles over a concrete slab with embedded radiant heat piping.
    In this case, I assume that anchor plugs will have to be used. How long are the screws and anchors that are used in the installation? I am wondering how far into the slab they would need to go. Further, i am wondering if I risk hitting hitting the radiant heat piping. I didn't install the radiant heat, it was done about 17 years ago and I don't know what the convention was then. Would they have put radiant heat piping directly behind the toilet drain/flange? Further, how deep into the slab would they have put the piping? Is there a risk with this installation or do I really have nothing to worry about. Any idea how the terracotta Saltillo tiles will hold an anchor and screw? Thanks for the help!

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    ANy idea how thick the tile are? If they are in the area of an inch, that should be enough for a plug. You might be able to turn the heat on, then using a thermal imaging camera or an IR thermometer, you should be able to locat the pipes.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    One who lurks Basement_Lurker's Avatar
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    I really doubt anybody would be stupid enough to embed tubing that close to a toilet flange....but hey, the graduates from moron college never seem to get held back...

    If you are really paranoid, and it is better to be safe than sorry, then you can just glue down the rear "ears" of the unifit adapter with construction adhesive, and bolt the front flange to the existing toilet flange. That will be more than enough to do the installation securely.

    You should be more concerned about making sure the shutoff valve is positioned properly.
    Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me? -Jack Handy


    www.blackbirdkitchenandbath.com

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The screws that come with the Unifit are not very long. And they are pretty small, we use a 1/4" bit in tile for the plastic drop-ins that the screws thread into.

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    DIY Junior Member Herrada's Avatar
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    Yeah, maybe i am being a little paranoid. ;-) But I've seen enough stupid things in this house that it makes sense to question everything. I wouldn't put heating pipe between the toilet drain and the wall, but then I didn't build the house. The only think that would be more stupid is running the heating pipes under the built-in bathtub. The terracotta Saltillo tile with a bit of mortar is a good 3/4" thick. My concern is the the strength of the terracotta to hold the anchor and screw. Maybe if I just build up mortar in place of the tile where the screws will go it will be a little stronger It will be covered by the toilet so no one will see it.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You don't really have to worry too much about the toilet getting lifted, but getting knocked sidways. The screws will work fine in shear. A little polyseamseal around the base of the toilet to prevent crud from getting underneath, and it isn't going anywhere.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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