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Thread: DWV Layout for Bathroom Remodel (2)

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    DIY Junior Member Stu27's Avatar
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    Default DWV Layout for Bathroom Remodel (2)

    Attached is a drawing of my dwv layout for a master bathroom remodel where we wish to move the lav, shower, and toilet to new locations. I tried to be much clearer than previous post, used 3D, and showed all vents this time. Lav drain is 1.5", shower drain is 2". Is this a good design, will it meet code? Thanks.
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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Looks pretty good to me, the only area I'm concerned about is the drain for the lav and shower tying in before the vent for the w/c, is that allowed? I'm not a plumber though. Just wondering what software you used?

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    The 2" vent after the shower is strictly cosmetic and performs absolutely no function.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    The 2" vent after the shower is strictly cosmetic and performs absolutely no function.
    So would the shower be wet vented through the lav without it, or would it be vented through the green "to roof" section?

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    DIY Junior Member Stu27's Avatar
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    I put the wye and 1/8 bend in the same relative position (between the toilet and vent) as it was in the original layout for the tub drain. I could move it downstream to the other side of the main vent, if necessary.

    Software is VectorWorks.

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    DIY Junior Member Stu27's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    The 2" vent after the shower is strictly cosmetic and performs absolutely no function.
    The original tub was wet vented and had poor drain performance, so I was focused on finding a way to dry vent each new fixture.

    If the 2" vent were removed and if the the lav was running at the same time that the shower was in use, would the shower then be wet vented? If that were the case, would the shower drain performance suffer as compared to leaving the 2" vent in place?

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    In the Trades Wally Hays's Avatar
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    good, bad or no venting will have no difference on drain performance. Water flows in a pipe just fine without any vent at all
    Perception is 3/4 of reality

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    good, bad or no venting will have no difference on drain performance. Water flows in a pipe just fine without any vent at all

    That is true as far as it goes. Vents come into play before AND after the fixture drains, and only slightly while it is draining. Therefore, they have LITTLE to do with the draining, although under the right circumstances a fixture will drain better and faster without a vent. In this case, the shower would use the sink vent, but depending on factors not apparent in the drawing, I would probably NOT connect the shower at that point anyway.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Hj you would rather it take a more direct route than a combo, and those two 90s prior the 45 and wye?

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    Journeyman/Inspector Inspektor Ludwig's Avatar
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    So it looks like you have a horizontal wet vent for your lav and shower and toilet, Like HJ said, the 2"vent downstream of the shower is useless, if you want to dry vent the shower then you need to pull the vent off of the shower trap arm before it ties into the main line of the lav waste. The 2" vent downstream of the toilet is also useless since it appears that the horizontal tie in of the shower and lav is between the toilet and the toilet vent. If you want to dry vent the toilet then the same rules apply as with the shower, you need to put the vent downstream of the toilet but upstream of the shower/lav tie in. If you want to run everything on a horizontal wet vent, then I would eliminate the 2 "optional" vents and use the lav vent only (2"). Of course if you want to use the vents there's no harm in it but it's just more work, more money.

  11. #11
    In the Trades Wally Hays's Avatar
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    the vent for the toilet is not doing anything either
    Perception is 3/4 of reality

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    DIY Junior Member Stu27's Avatar
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    Thanks to all for the feedback so far, I appreciate it!

    I've added some photos of the existing plumbing (as-built by home builder) for context. Some limitations…
    - I was trying to layout the drains so as not to bore any more holes in the floor joists (my thought here was to keep the floor as stiff as possible as the entire area will get tile when done).
    - the new lav and shower will be on an exterior wall that has an engineered piece of lumber beneath (thought I'd avoid pipes in this wall altogether)
    - existing sanitary tee on its back venting the 3" waste (from my readings here I understand this is not to code). I plan to correct this in the remodel with a combo (already shown in the 3D drawing)
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    DIY Junior Member Stu27's Avatar
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    I will move the 2" drain entering the 3" waste at the wye + 1/8 bend to downstream of the main vent (poor judgement on my part… copying the existing layout)

    Assuming that change will correct the toilet vent, how best to proceed with the lav and shower drains/vents...

    I can see (now) that in my proposed 3D layout the shower would vent off the lav vent and the 2" shower vent was not helpful.

    Can I simply move the lav drain tie-in to a point on the 2" drain that is downstream of the shower vent, thus giving both fixtures dedicated, functional vents (like in the attached layout)? If that is overkill (or pathetic), any suggestions are appreciated.

    I want to do this right (hey - that's why i'm here). Thanks again for the help…
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    Homeowner geniescience's Avatar
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    Now you the joists are visible, I'll say that it is best NOT to use the existing holes in the joists. You can strengthen your joists every easily later if you want them stiffer. It's not a challenge.

    New holes to be cut would not be in the center of the span, so that is another (minor) good thing if you want to overthink this. New holes would be near the shower drain. The waster water would follow a far more direct route.

    my opinion.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Is there a reason you are NOT utilizing the existing connection and holes in the joists? Without a floor plan showing HOW the shower is being installed, it is not possible to optimize your piping, but it appears you are doing it the hardest way possible.

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