Advice on new Closet Flange: 4" Spigot vs 3" outside fit

Users who are viewing this thread

Taco

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Seattle WA
I have to raise my closet flange for bathroom remodel - I need to raise the flange to be on top of tile.
My waste pipe is 3" ABS. The flange will have has a stainless ring.
I have 2 options for installing a new flange:

Use:
4" spigot closet flange
4" coupling - I need this to make the correct height and properly seat my flange deep enough.
4" Closet Elbow to 3" waste. I need to cut the straight vertical part the closet elbow to fit the coupling.

Or:
3" outside fit closet flange
3" vertical
3" elbow

There was a 3" elbow in there previously. My thoughts are the 4" is better. I mainly want to confirm that there's nothing wrong with using the coupling on the 4" option. I doubt it, but want to bounce this off of the forum before I continue.

Here's what it looked like below before I got started. I have since removed the elbow to the left.


Thanks in advance,
Tony
 

Attachments

  • toilet_plumbing_larger_view.jpg
    toilet_plumbing_larger_view.jpg
    93.9 KB · Views: 6,931
Last edited:

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,603
Reaction score
1,042
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
The spigot/straight section of the closet bend will usually be long enough so you do NOT have to use a coupling and CAN use a "slip over" closet flange. If it is not long enough, then it should be short enough so you do not have to cut it.

abs-4-closet-flange-terrylove-1.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Taco

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Seattle WA
Using a slip over 4" closet flange, how much (inches) of the flange actually needs to go over the straight section of the closet bend? What would be the minimum to make this a reliable joint?
The reason I ask is that using the 4" closet elbow as you're suggesting the straight part of the closet elbow comes up to 3/4" below my finished floor surface, so I won't be tight/flush if I go with a slip over 4".
I've attached a picture of the top of the closet elbow. Would it still be ok to use the slip over?
 

Attachments

  • closet_elbow_from_above.jpg
    closet_elbow_from_above.jpg
    25 KB · Views: 2,799
Last edited:

Taco

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Seattle WA
Still looking for some advice. I just want to make sure I do the right thing here.
 

Redwood

Master Plumber
Messages
7,335
Reaction score
13
Points
0
Location
Connecticut
Fix the floor so the flange mounts on top of the finished floor and the floor is level to the hole.

The pipe should insert fully into the flange.
 

Taco

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Seattle WA
Thanks. I am planning on putting the flange on top of the tile. Since I need to fully insert the pipe into the flange I am back to choosing one of the original options. 3" ouside mount or 4" spigot using a 4" closet elbow + a coupling?
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,603
Reaction score
1,042
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
You are NOT using the correct elbow. A "spigot 4 x 3 closet bend" has a SIX inch riser, which is cut to fit. It will project WELL ABOVE your floor tile without a coupling.
 

Taco

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Seattle WA
HJ, you're right. The staight part of my closet bend is 3 3/8". I got it at the Home Depot. I need to find a place that carries the correct elbow...
 

Taco

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Seattle WA
img_2012.jpg
Thanks all for your help. Now on to moving my supply line to fit my Toto Soiree.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Have you got any screws in that flange to hold it safely in place? Remember, that is what holds the toilet in place...it should be anchored. About the only time you can get away without screwing it to the floor is when the whole thing is cast iron and embedded in concrete (well, some would say just the CI is enough). Drilling holes in a hard porcelain works best with a diamond core bit. It's too late now, but prior to installing the tile, it is easier to put a notch in the tile so you don't have to drill through later for the screws.
 

Taco

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Seattle WA
Thanks. Yes, there were screws in there. I notched the tile prior to installation and screwed into the subfloor. Everything was sturdy. Since the last post, I moved the supply line and installed the toilet. Success!
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks