(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 46 to 58 of 58

Thread: Iron Filter Spews Iron after Outdoor Sprinklers are ran

  1. #46
    DIY Junior Member branjo101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Hi Terry,

    Thanks for your reply. I do have a backflow preventer on my irrigation system. In addition, now I have a backflow preventer/check valve right before my water conditioning system too.

  2. #47
    DIY Junior Member branjo101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Hi Gary,

    Sloshing might be the wrong word to use; maybe stirring. When I was looking at the prefilter as the zones were changing, I could see iron/sediment going back and forth. If I had air coming in, wouldn't I have a leak then? Actually, I don't see that I could have air coming in if I have any type of line pressure. I look at it as the plumbing system is trying to get to some equilibrium pressure as these zones kick on. When I'm using the term backflow, I don't mean that it is draining, but rather just a little movement backwards. Once it seems like a zone valve closes, then the water flows a little forward. Kind of like a pendulum. It's hard to describe what I'm seeing in words....thanks for your reponse

  3. #48
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,792

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by branjo101 View Post
    Hi Gary,

    Sloshing might be the wrong word to use; maybe stirring. When I was looking at the prefilter as the zones were changing, I could see iron/sediment going back and forth.
    Then the pressure is going to zero as the zone comes on due to the peak demand gpm of the zone's heads being higher than your pressure tank/water service can deliver.

    Quote Originally Posted by branjo101 View Post
    If I had air coming in, wouldn't I have a leak then?
    An air leak that doesn't leak water yes. It can be a gasket or o-ring on a control valve or a threaded fitting in the plumbing etc. etc.. And recall that water is not compressible so the pressure going to zero psi is not going to cause any water movement without something in the system being compressible, like a garden hose, air operated water hammer suppressors, washer machine hoses, etc..

    Quote Originally Posted by branjo101 View Post
    Actually, I don't see that I could have air coming in if I have any type of line pressure. I look at it as the plumbing system is trying to get to some equilibrium pressure as these zones kick on.
    See above.

    Quote Originally Posted by branjo101 View Post
    When I'm using the term backflow, I don't mean that it is draining, but rather just a little movement backwards. Once it seems like a zone valve closes, then the water flows a little forward. Kind of like a pendulum. It's hard to describe what I'm seeing in words....thanks for your reponse
    So now the check valve is treating the symptom rather than the cause but it's solving the problem of rusty water. but, the rusty water is/was on top of the iron filter media/mineral and shouldn't have been able to get through the whole bed to the bottom of the tank to get out into the plumbing and to your fixtures unless the mineral needs replacing.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #49
    DIY Junior Member branjo101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Good points Gary. I wonder if how my piping coming in is a possible culprit. I thought someone in this thread said that it should be irrigation sprinklers teeing off of the main and the main inlet continues on to the house; I have the opposite. Is there some length of pipe that is needed from the main to the water conditioning equipment? Mine are in real close proximity. Yeah, I don't know how rusty water or iron could get through the iron bed. It was just rebedded; I had the problem before and after rebedding. Unfortunately, I have been down the path of getting all new and refurbished equipment.

  5. #50
    Previous member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    North of the Mason dixon Line
    Posts
    1,150

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by branjo101 View Post
    Good points Gary. I wonder if how my piping coming in is a possible culprit. I thought someone in this thread said that it should be irrigation sprinklers teeing off of the main and the main inlet continues on to the house; I have the opposite. Is there some length of pipe that is needed from the main to the water conditioning equipment? Mine are in real close proximity. Yeah, I don't know how rusty water or iron could get through the iron bed. It was just rebedded; I had the problem before and after rebedding. Unfortunately, I have been down the path of getting all new and refurbished equipment.
    I doubt very much that you have any suction leak there, what you had was a classic back flow situation. The check valve has solved your problem. Did you have an approved backflow preventer installed or just a check valve? Both do the same thing but an approved back flow preventer is as Terry pointed out, code required on sprinkler and irrigation systems. I wouldn't give it any more thought, you have done the right thing.

  6. #51
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,792

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by branjo101 View Post
    Good points Gary. I wonder if how my piping coming in is a possible culprit. I thought someone in this thread said that it should be irrigation sprinklers teeing off of the main and the main inlet continues on to the house; I have the opposite.
    Yes that could be the cause, it isn't normal IMO and I've never seen irrigation plumbed that way.

    Quote Originally Posted by branjo101 View Post
    Is there some length of pipe that is needed from the main to the water conditioning equipment? Mine are in real close proximity. Yeah, I don't know how rusty water or iron could get through the iron bed. It was just rebedded; I had the problem before and after rebedding. Unfortunately, I have been down the path of getting all new and refurbished equipment.
    The length of pipe doesn't matter but if the equipment is before the pressure tank that does matter and is wrong.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #52
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,687

    Default

    I realize this is an old thread but I'd like to put forth my opinion on what was happening. The entire plumbing system in the house provides some amount of expansion (and subsequent storage) albeit not much. The sprinkler system was dropping the supply below the house pressure causing a small amount of reversal. The final step of a birm filter backwash is a forward rinse and pack, with an emphasis on "pack". This packing is an important last step and the small reversals were shaking up the pack allowing the filter to be too loose.

    Also, there could be small amounts of air trapped in the top of the softener or hot water tank which would increase the amount of "draw down" increasing the amount of reversal. I see this exact same symptom on my system.

  8. #53
    DIY Junior Member branjo101's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Hello All,

    I figured I'd close the loop here with an update. It's been almost a year since I had this problem. The check valve isolating my system has worked flawlessly. I ran my outside sprinklers almost every day during the hot summer months. The inside house water was/is absolutely crystal clear. No more draining hot water tanks, dumping ice cubes, and softener/filter regens. I've passed this on to a few of my neighbors. They only have water softeners, but they've been complaining of iron in the water (not to the extent I had) during the summer months. Thanks for the great posts. Hopefully this helps other people.

  9. #54
    DIY Junior Member jocko11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    16

    Default

    I don't know how this works so here goes. I have a failed MacCleens iron filter that i need to replace. I also have aquired 3 old softners, one with a fleck 3210 and the other 2 with a fleck 3200. Rather than purchase a new filox media filter, can I use the parts from these and just purchase the new media and gravel, If so, what do I use for the control head,and what do i do with the brine settings, and inlet on the controller?

  10. #55
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,471

    Default

    Fleck 3210 and 3200? that would be what kind of timers are on the valves?
    Might there be a photo of the units in question?
    It might be that you could buy new media , but what media is a question ...
    But I be at a loss on the type of fleck valves that you have.

  11. #56
    DIY Junior Member jocko11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    16

    Default retrofit iron filter

    The valves are 3200/ with manual skipper wheel, or 3210/ with water usage auto set wheel. I also have the original 2510 that is on the old MacCleens unit, that could be rebuilt?

    Do you need a picture of the valve body?

  12. #57
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,471

    Default

    Photos would be great... of both the valve body and timer controls on the front of the valve bodies.

    2510 is a valve that is in use today so that can be rebuilt with no challenge.

    You might wish to start a new thread for this,
    Some thing like Refit of Iron Filter
    Just a thought.
    Last edited by Akpsdvan; 08-30-2011 at 08:27 AM.

  13. #58
    DIY Junior Member jocko11's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    16

    Default here are pics

    Name:  SAM_0865.jpg
Views: 76
Size:  65.2 KBName:  SAM_0866.jpg
Views: 79
Size:  57.2 KBName:  SAM_0867.jpg
Views: 77
Size:  58.1 KB

    these are valve and timers ihave

Similar Threads

  1. .41 ppm iron, filter needed?
    By ugabulldog in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-17-2010, 11:33 AM
  2. New home / iron filter
    By leslie B in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-12-2010, 03:37 PM
  3. Iron Filter questions
    By djd in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-19-2008, 09:56 AM
  4. iron filter drain
    By rburt5 in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-28-2008, 11:50 AM
  5. Septic system/whole hse iron filter ??
    By sha424 in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-23-2007, 02:49 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •