Gary Slusser
That's all folks!
- Messages
- 6,921
- Reaction score
- 22
- Points
- 38
- Location
- Wherever I park the motorhome.
- Website
- www.qualitywaterassociates.com
Oh, so you think he has an air leak in the house too and it allows air into the plumbing so water can move out of the house to the sprinklers. I wouldn't bet on that but for water to leave the house there would have to be an air leak.There is a backflow situation occuring when the sprinkler system runs. As for the expansion tank, we have already addressed the issue however I'll do it again. If he notices the relief valve on the water heater dripping then a tank will be in order but I would try it without first.
Anyway, how does so much rusty water that he has it at all faucets then get back into the house and through the filter, the sediment filter and the softener.
In your other reply you say that after he installs teh check valve you think will cure his rusty water problem, he should watch his T/P valve on the water heater to see if it leaks, and if it does, then add an expansion tank... I know that when a T/P starts leaking, they rarely stop leaking. That's going to cost him to replace the T/P valve after just installing the expansion tank after just installing the check valve. To then find out he didn't solve the rusty water problem because the check valve didn't solve the problem.
And I see that big drip is going without your check valve too. He thinks the cause is leftover rust in the control valve, tank and "tubing". Now if you don't agree that there would be enough to cause rusty water all over the house for IIRC 3+ days, I'm with ya. I guess he missed the part that the media is Birm and that when the water is rusty and run some it goes clear. And that after backwashing it is clear until the sprinklers run the next time.