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Thread: Wiring diagram for bedroom

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    DIY Junior Member oxicottin's Avatar
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    Default Wiring diagram for bedroom

    Hello, I'm in the process of adding a bedroom and a closet in my basement and am planning out how the wiring should go. I have done wiring before but just replacing and never started a whole room before so I needed some help. Ok, now how would I do this? I wanted a outlet on each wall and a ceiling light in the bedroom and one in the closet. How would the diagram go from a breaker box? would I run 12-2 to a box in the room and split room there with 12-2 for outlets and 14-2 for lights? Thanks!

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Why would you put the lights on the same system with the outlets? If one of them trips the breaker, the room will be in darkness. AND if you put 14/2 on that same system, you don't need 12/2 for the outlets because as soon as you do that, you have restricted the breaker to 15 amps maximum.

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    DIY Junior Member oxicottin's Avatar
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    What I wanted to do was use a 20amp breaker run 12-2 from there to the receptacles and where the light switch was break off it with 14-2 for the room light and the receptacle closest to the closest do the same via-receptacle/switch/light. Can I do this or do I have to use a 20am for the receptacle and a 15amp for the 2 lights which I think its a wast of breaker.

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    Licensed Electrical Contractor Speedy Petey's Avatar
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    It's not a big deal to have the lighting on with the receptacles. The whole "you'll be in darkness" thing is kind of silly IMO. There is ALWAYS ambient light from somewhere, unless the main trips of course.

    The thing is you cannot mix wire sizes and have a breaker for the larger wire. If you mix then you must size the breaker for the smaller wire. That said, there is NO reason to mix wire sizes in a circuit. Well, none that would apply here at least. You would just be wasting the #12 by using it with #14. Your idea is an old timer's premise, although it was never legal.

    Either use all #12 with a 20A breaker, or all #14 with a 15A breaker.

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    Electrical Contractor Jim Port's Avatar
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    Your closet will also have strict clearence requirements and allowable fixture types. Incandescent fixture need to be 12" or more from storage areas and shelf edges. No exposed bulbs. Fluorescent reduces the clearence to 6" or more.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    If the bedroom won't have anything special in it, then one 15A circuit should be fine. A small TV, alarm clock, and a few lights is easily handled on a single breaker. Now, if you want to add a microwave, frig, hot rollers, and maybe use a hair dryer, you might want to run more. Some treadmills might push the load, but not normally.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy Petey View Post
    It's not a big deal to have the lighting on with the receptacles. The whole "you'll be in darkness" thing is kind of silly IMO. There is ALWAYS ambient light from somewhere, unless the main trips of course.
    I have had more power failures than tripped breakers in my entire life. Some can come up with the silliest ideas

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    DIY Junior Member CapstanRec's Avatar
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    Per current NEC, bedroom outlets (defined by NEC as both receptacles and lights) are required to be on Arc Fault Circuit Interupter breakers (AFCIs). These breakers are expensive and that's why many new homes combine lights and receptacles in bedrooms. It reduces the number of overall AFCIs. In my home, I made sure my lights and receptacles are never on the same circuit. There's nothing more annoying than plugging in something that draws a nice amount of current and have flickering lights. That's one reason bathroom receptacles now require a dedicated branch. Think hair dryer.

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