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Thread: Load Bearing?

  1. #1
    Plumber Esquire's Avatar
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    Default Load Bearing?

    How can I determine if I have have a load bearing wall in my house? I have a split entry home. I want to remove the 12 foot wall between my kitchen and living room on the top floor. Would it soley be based on the type of roof trusses that I have

    I don't know the differences between them so I'll just post a picture of the attic.

    The trusses are running perpendicular to the wall I hope to remove. And that wall runs almost centred down the house.
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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Is the wall directly under the ridge of the roof?

    Does the wall you want to remove run from one end of the home to the other with only doorways splitting it up?

    The best way to tell for sure is to pull some drywall and if there are headers over the doorways and a double top plate then it's definitely load bearing.

    Is there a wall in the basement or a beam that sits directly under the wall you'd like to remove?

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Based on what I can see, it's likely that is a load bearing wall. As said, if it lines up (or is close) to the center, it probably is. Tear off some sheetrock as indicated, or talk to a structural engineer. I had a similar problem, and got one to come out and render an opinion on a problem and he only charged me $100. He didn't have to travel far, so that made a difference. You may not be as lucky.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Based on what I can see, it's likely that is a load bearing wall. As said, if it lines up (or is close) to the center, it probably is. Tear off some sheetrock as indicated, or talk to a structural engineer. I had a similar problem, and got one to come out and render an opinion on a problem and he only charged me $100. He didn't have to travel far, so that made a difference. You may not be as lucky.
    With more pictures I bet we can determine that it is definitely load bearing, at that point hiring an engineer might be a good idea and he/she can help you open the house up with a beam if you so desire.

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    It is in the centre of the house for the most part. Front room is 12' from front to back and the kitchen is 11'. So that's pretty damn close to centre. Along this wall (it travels the entire span of the home) there are three doorways and a closet.

    Somebody told me that if you had pre-enginered trusses that the wouldn't be a load bearing wall on the top floor of the house, only in the basement level. If I had to put a header in there and post at the end I wouldn't mind but I'd love to just have an open room totally.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    The somebody who told you that doesn't know what spec your trusses we're engineered to.

    What is the span (perpendicular to the wall in question) of the trusses?

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    The span would be the entire house front to back appx 24'. The span after the wall is removed (from left to right) will be a 15' opening.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Okay, and below the wall in question (assuming you have a basement or floor below) is there a beam or wall there too? Or a pony wall in a crawl space even.

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    There is a wall below it that spans the whole house also. It is about 6" off of being directly below.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    I'm fairly confident that you do in fact have a load bearing wall, you will need to get an engineer involved to decide what size of beam you require to replace it...

  11. #11
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    Damn I got excited when I walked into a house the other day and the guy ripped down a pile of walls and said it was cool cause his roof trusses could support it.

    I'll have to get an enginer to check it out.
    Thanks for you quick responses.

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