Replacing a Lead Closet Bend

MACPLUMB 777 said:

How about packing a inch of oakum in the bottom of the hub then use rubber ?

Click to expand...

Based on his reaction when I asked for the donut, I wonder what sort of look the guy at the plumbing supply place I found would give me if I asked for oakum! I actually probably would have done it if the store had been open today.

Anyway, here's what I did:

I got a 4x3 donut that's a bit deeper, but it still doesn't fill the whole hub. However, by using the donut without a bushing, I was able to extend the 3" pipe deeper into the cast iron tee - just slightly deeper than the brass to which the lead bend was connected. This way, the waste from the toilet gets directed down the tee, rather than dumping into the hub (I hope). If the drain backs up, water could get into the hub, but it should be thoroughly sealed, and it wouldn't be an everyday occurrence. So I think I'm good. Probably total overkill, but I'll sleep better. I just have to figure out how to check for leaks.

Incidentally, I put the subfloor down temporarily and got the sink and tub in place to figure out my final drain connections (plus I want to see if the tub drains adequately), and everything looks great. The acrylic tub is a lot slimmer than the steel one I pulled out, creating additional space, as does the replacement of an awful vanity (the bathroom was really too small for it) with a pedestal sink. It looks like the vanity replaced a wall-hung sink, so the framing's there for the pedestal sink.

Still a lot of work to do, but it shouldn't (I hope) be an uphill battle now. Thanks to everyone for your help so far. I will have to post some pictures when everything's further along. It's hard for me to find a lot of time to work on this project, so it could be a while...

Using a sawzall, I cut off the lead bend. Also some of the brass busing inside the hub. Also a drill bit to drill and pry out the lead holding the bushing into the hub. Prying with a flat blade screwdriver.



Here the brass in gone, and at the stage where I'm removing the lead around the hub.



With the lead gone, taking some emory cloth and cleaning up the hub.



A rubber hub insert.



Tapping in a 4x3 ABS flush bush using a 2x4 and a hammer.



All nicely in place ready for pipe.



I was able to adjust the rough in and place it 12" away from the back wall, it used to be 14", common for the 1920's toilets but not for the later 12" standard rough-in. The homeowner now picks up 2" of leg space.
The tank fits against the wall on the left. I also picked up 2" more inches to center the toilet within the 30" space between the wall and the pedestal lav.

actually, the oakum IS waterproof, which is why they use it to caulk the chines in boats. The lead is just to keep it packed tightly.