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Thread: possible blocked sand point and what to do about it

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member LeslieinNorth Pole's Avatar
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    Default possible blocked sand point and what to do about it

    I have rustic alaskan water that comes out cold and orange. I use a white wrapped filter, a carbon filter, and 40,000 grain water softener which really helps keep my fixtures from getting stained and only leaves a small amount of odor in the water. In my area the water table is shallow, maybe 8 foot. My well is suppose to be at 25 foot.

    My system is taking forever to build pressure, after 30 seconds of the shower running, it just dribbles on you. I picture my system acting as though it is trying to pull water through a plugged up straw. Max flow in the house is .6 gallons per minute to give you an idea. It takes forever to do anything, even fill the tank on the toliet.

    I replaced my 1/2 hp pump and tiny tank with a much larger tank and a new 3/4 miller shallow well and of course this didn't remedy the situation.

    I pulled my 3/4 line with its foot valve out of my 2" well casing and it looks like the static level of my well is only 8 foot down...

    I added a half gallon of Nu-well tablets per manufactures instructions and maybe three gallons of hot water before the bubbles started overflowing the casing about 5 hours ago. I cut the foot valve (it did not seemed to be plugged up) off my old line and pushed it back into the casing so I can move it up and down to agitate the line but it is taking a long time for the water level to drop at all.

    1) I plan on letting it sit for 24 hours but I am wondering if I need to use an air pump to aerate the well and if I should use a longer stick of pipe to push all the way down to the bottom of the well/sandpoint?

    2) Once I pump off the chemicals using the old pump, will I need to bleach the system to drop the level of the rust bacteria as I am sure they are part of why the system is so plugged up.

    3) Am I missing anything?

    I am putting a new foot valve on a new 1" pex line and attaching it to my new pump once I know the well is cleared and clean, so as not to inadvertantly pump any chemicals back into my potable water for the house.
    Last edited by LeslieinNorth Pole; 08-26-2010 at 06:03 PM.

  2. #2
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Usually a well that won't take water, won't make water. You may have to get the chemical further out in the formation. Chasing the tabs with fresh water will force the chemical out into the formation. If the well is taking water slowly, you just have to add water slowly.

  3. #3
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by valveman View Post
    Usually a well that won't take water, won't make water. You may have to get the chemical further out in the formation. Chasing the tabs with fresh water will force the chemical out into the formation. If the well is taking water slowly, you just have to add water slowly.
    Or could it be that your filter system is restricting the flow? There are other options to a low yield well but it will require a two pump system and a large unpressurized storage tank with a float switch!
    Porky Cutter, MGWC
    (Master Ground Water Consultant)

  4. #4
    AAW jimtum's Avatar
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    Porky may be on to something, my first thought would be to bypass each filter one at a time and see what the resutls are. Also if you have iron in your water then chances are the carbon filter is fouled. If you want to filter the iron you need to use birm or some other media in your tank, the carbon is for taste and odor, non organic chemicals, sulphur, chlorine etc. Try bypassing the filters and see what happens

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