Need help with shallow well pump problem

[jdh1126]

I just installed a Flotec Series FP4300 1HP Convertible deep well jet pump for use with surface water (lake) to run my hydraulic boat lift and provide water to a couple outdoor faucets. The unit required that I install an ejector kit if being used with surface water, which I did. I do not hve it hooked to a pressure tank. The intake has a foot valve. When I turned on the power with no faucett open it took under a minute to build to 50psi and shut off. When I opened the faucett it spurts water at first but then the pressue goes way down. The pump is going crazy - shooting down below 30psi and cycling on , shooting up to 50 psi and shutting off about once per second or even faster and doing this over and over. Any thoughts? Would I be better off with a shallow well pump rather than a deep well that is convertible? thank you

[ballvalve]

You need a small pressure tank. Or you need to plug in and unplug the motor each time you use it and bypass the pressure switch. I would'nt "test" it anymore as it is, or its going to burn up.

[jdh1126]

Thank you. How do I wire it so I bypass the pressure switch?

[ballvalve]

Wires from motor directly to incoming power. put it on a switch. Could test by just jumping the wires inside the pressure switch. Better find out max pressure the pump does so you dont harm some element in the system and install a pressure relief valve, adjustable, that blows some water at high pressure or the pump will overheat when not moving water.

For a quick test you can hold the pressure switch closed with a WELL INSULATED screwdriver, pushing on the insulated portion of the contact assembly....or lift up on the spring element base which is safer. I use a wedge of some sort when I need to keep a pump on for awhile. Or get a 50$ small tank and then you can leave it on the switch. You need to tee in a pressure switch first, 0-160 or so.

Fool with the switch with the power OFF and you will understand its operating characteristics. [unless its some odd ball sealed unit]

[valveman]

You should never use a pressure switch without a pressure tank. I would just hook it up to a manual switch, and turn it on and off when I wanted. That pump shouldn’t be able to build enough pressure to hurt anything. Although it will burn up in a few minutes if you leave it running with no water pumping.

[jdh1126]

Thanks guys! I appreciate your help. If I install a pressure tank, how do I connect the pump to the tank?

[valveman]

A tank just tees into the line. But it will only slow down the cycling, not eliminate it. I have used a Cycle Stop Valve with a small tank on these type systems before and they work good. Then you just open or close a valve as needed and the pump works automatically without cycling.

[jdh1126]

Thanks Valveman. I am also thinking that maybe I should go to an all-in-one system. What do you think of this one?

Northern INDUSTRIAL Shallow Well Pump - 1 HP, Model#JGP12001CHT
http://www.google.com/products/catal...CCYQ8wIwBDgA#p

[valveman]

Nothing different from what you already have except that it has a pressure tank teed into the line. And that pump is probably less quality than the Flotec you have, if that is even possible.

[ballvalve]

The flotec is a Mercedes in comparison to that Chinese debri. It is NOT 1hp, they have tiny little horses in China. You might get a few months out of it. Its a throw away, disposable pump dumped on America to keep the Chinese working. If you have an old water heater laying around, you can use that by teeing into the drain valve and plugging the outlets and inlets. Thats a Polish pressure tank. You can add an air maker valve, or simply drain it when the tank fills with water when it absorbs the air, or add air with an air compressor. Finally, you can get an expansion tank or well tank like the one in valvemans icon for 50 or 60 bucks.

The ultimate Polish pressure tank is about 400 feet of cheap hose from wallymart that expands with added pressure.