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Thread: New Water Tank Pressure Issues - looking for best and brightest.

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member jcdephi's Avatar
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    Default New Water Tank Pressure Issues - looking for best and brightest.

    I am on well water and recently had an old steel bladderless water tank replaced with a nonsteel bladder tank. The old tank had a line that feed into the tank and then out to the house. When the new tank was put in, the plumber designed the flow from the well in such a way that it would to go from the well, to an elbow that "up" into the main house line, and finally to an elbow that goes "down" to the water tank (only one intake, no tee fixture used). The placement of the pressure is not next to the tank but up off elbow leading to the main house.

    My problem is that when the well kicks on (sudden drop on gauge -10 psi) and water is being called on (tub, toilet, sprinkler) the water pressure does not increase. I would expect that well is filling up the tank and being used whereever else it is being called on (tub). But I can leave the tub on for 15 minutes and the pressures stays lows (it actually bounces around +/- 5 psi). In this case, as soon as I turn the tub off, the pressure shoots up to 50 psi (no elapsed time, instant 50 psi). No matter how long I leave the tub running and then shut it off it will only go to 50 psi (my switch off is set to 60 psi).

    My guess is that the pressure gauge should be at the intake of the tank. I also think I should have tee fixture that would allow the well to go directly to the tank, and then the tank to the house (eliminate the pump to house and pump to tank ability).
    Any thoughts, want to go back to plumber and have an idea if I can blame him for this bad design. Never had this problem with old tank, has happend Day 1 from getting new tank.

  2. #2
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    You figured it out. Tank needs to be at pressure switch and WITH a pressure gauge there too..... then feed the house.

    Water in to the tank tee - switch and gauge- house.

  3. #3
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    The kind of tank and the placement of the switch have nothing to do with your pump not building to 60 PSI. Either you have a pump problem or the gauge is bad.

  4. #4
    AAW jimtum's Avatar
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    I am not sure how far they are apart but your pressure tank needs to be within 10 feet of your pressure switch. It does sound like you may have a weak pump. You can find out if you can shut the flow off with your hand by cutting the pipe for open discharge and then placing your hand over the pipe if you can stop the flow then your pump is weak. Your guage may also be bad, you can check the tank pressure by using a tire gauge and when the pump shuts off check the air in the tank and it is your true reading. I also just had a thought. If you had a galvanized tank and went to a bladder tank you are mixing two systems. The problem may be that the bleeder in the well is allowing the water to be pushed out of it especially if you don't have a check valve before your pressure tank.

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