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Thread: The Quick Connect fitting on my new WellMate pressure tank leaks

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  1. #1

    Default The Quick Connect fitting on my new WellMate pressure tank leaks

    The Quick Connect fitting on my new WellMate WM-9 30 gallon tank leaks. Help.

    Reference my earlier post (link: http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...eral-questions), I selected a replacement WellMate pressure tank because it appeared to fit my requirements. So with advice from two people on the forum (“ballvalve” and “Porky”) I began the installation process. It was easy.

    I cut the plastic fitting from the old tank that connected to the brass T valve. This allowed me to not touch any plumbing. After verifying tank pressure, etc, I installed the WellMate Quick Connect fitting to the brass T with Teflon tape. Then I slid the new 30 gallon tank in place.

    The alignment was perfect. No adjustments of any sort were necessary. The tank was level, the quick connect was level, there was no binding whatsoever. Then I inserted the red “keeper” into place to secure the quick connect to the tank. Even though it looks like a chintzy setup, everything looked as though it was properly installed.

    I turned the pump on and saw a leak. The quick connect fitting leaked, probably at the rubber o-ring.

    After taking it apart, calling the distributor, re-verifying everything was spotless, and then re-installing it, I still had the same leak. The technician at the distributor said he doesn’t like to install tanks with plastic quick connects, including WellMate tanks. He also said where possible he hard-plumbs instead of using quick connects, but on my tank, it would be difficult at best. They’re sending a new tank, but my cottage is without water until next week.

    Anyone have experience with WellMate plastic quick connects? Given the constraints of the “rib” along the feed pipe, can this be converted to a hard-plumb?

    I’m planning to install the replacement new tank Tuesday morning, and I don’t have a good feeling about it. Any additional advice is truly appreciated.
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    Regards,
    Richard

  2. #2
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Why didnt you change the air cell on the old tank? It also looks like that entire waterway is changeable and some have threaded ends. O rings are quite reliable, a little lube helps. I would connect to that fitting with flexible hose or tubing to eliminate alignment and vibration issues.

  3. #3
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    I haven't seen a Wel-Mate with this type of fitting. I really don't like it but I hope it will be OK with the new fitting.

    If not, as a last resort take it all back to the supplier and request they test it, replace it or refund your money. My personal preference has always been Amtrols "Well-X-Control Tanks http://www.amtrol.com/index.htm.
    Porky Cutter, MGWC
    (Master Ground Water Consultant)

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    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    I notice you have that plastic thread buried tight against the tee. Usually means one or the other thread is out of spec or you overtightened the plastic or underwrapped it with tape. I would use top quality teflon tape and more wraps than normal. Leaks can travel in very hard to notice paths.

  5. #5

    Default Thank you for your help

    Thank you for responses to my problem.

    1st response: "Why didnt you change the air cell on the old tank? It also looks like that entire waterway is changeable and some have threaded ends. O rings are quite reliable, a little lube helps. I would connect to that fitting with flexible hose or tubing to eliminate alignment and vibration issues."

    I didn't change the air cell for two reasons, the first being I wanted greater draw-down capacity, the second was the cost to replace the cell was more than half the cost of a new, larger tank. As for "the entire waterway," do you mean to say I may be able to use one from a non-quick-connect WellMate tank? Lastly, I appreciate the info re: lube and flex tubing.


    2nd response: I haven't seen a Wel-Mate with this type of fitting. I really don't like it but I hope it will be OK with the new fitting.

    If not, as a last resort take it all back to the supplier and request they test it, replace it or refund your money. My personal preference has always been Amtrols "Well-X-Control Tanks http://www.amtrol.com/index.htm.


    It is odd looking. I WILL ask for a refund if the replacement leaks. I'm not excited about a 400 mile, one-day round-trip to fix it again before guests arrive next weekend.


    I notice you have that plastic thread buried tight against the tee. Usually means one or the other thread is out of spec or you overtightened the plastic or underwrapped it with tape. I would use top quality teflon tape and more wraps than normal. Leaks can travel in very hard to notice paths.

    Probably over-tightened. I had only one wrap of teflon. I am positive the leak was from the quick-connect and not the fitting attached to brass. However, I will give it a couple wraps and willmake it secure, not over-tightened. By the way, teflon or pipe dope?

    Which is preferred by the experts?
    Regards,
    Richard

  6. #6
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    There are all sorts of teflon tape. Some of the no name junk is probably chinese grocery bags dyed white and wrapped nicely on a spool. Real tape has a name on it, thickness in Mils, and was made somewhere in the usa. Gotta pay a buck or three, and you can choose a width too. Some pipe dope is not rated for plastic, so be careful. In an old fitting like that, I would wire brush the galvanized part, and probably use tape over a bit of permatex teflon thread sealant on the plastic. One wrap of cheap teflon will not work.

    Try Graingers or the local farm supply store. Home depression will not have it.
    Last edited by ballvalve; 08-16-2010 at 10:11 AM.

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