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Thread: Kinetico flooding

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member phoebe's Avatar
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    Default Kinetico flooding

    Hi -

    I have a kinetico block salt softener about 12 y o. I currently have it isolated, as it recently flooded the kitchen. There is no obvious blockage in the overflow and water does drip through it, but when the machine is not isolated, water is flowing into the reserve tank at full pressure causing the water level inside to rise and rise until it floods over the top of where i put the salt in. I have tried trying to get it to manually regenerate, but it does not. The other thing that may be worth a mention is that, whilst investigating this problem, I have noticed that the open/close valves on the pipes to the machine leak when open.

    I have tried my local service engineers, but am waiting since Friday for a call back - any ideas please?

  2. #2

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    The float assemble stops the water from flowing into the salt tank. Pull the float out of the salt tank and clean. Pulling up on the center rod should stop the water flow.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member phoebe's Avatar
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    thank you, i have tried removing and cleaning the float assembly. I replaced in the machine, and turned the water back on............. in doing so, I think i have discovered the problem. There is a split in the high pressure hose between the float assembly and the machine; could this be the reason that the machine will not manually regenerate also??? Could it be that there is not enough water pressure to get it to do so? And finally, do i need a kinetico specialist to replace it, or could a plumber do the job?

    Thank you for your assistance ;-)

  4. #4
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Kinetico is sometimes very fussy about who they will sell parts to, so, even if you could fix it, you may not be able to get the parts. Not sure if this is generic.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by phoebe View Post
    thank you, i have tried removing and cleaning the float assembly. I replaced in the machine, and turned the water back on............. in doing so, I think i have discovered the problem. There is a split in the high pressure hose between the float assembly and the machine; could this be the reason that the machine will not manually regenerate also??? Could it be that there is not enough water pressure to get it to do so? And finally, do i need a kinetico specialist to replace it, or could a plumber do the job?

    Thank you for your assistance ;-)
    If it's the hose that is split, you can replace it. It's a standard 3/8" high density tubing. If the split is close enough to a connection, just cut out the bad part for a quick fix and replace soon.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member phoebe's Avatar
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    Thanks again - could you comment on whether the split would account for the machine not regenerating?

  7. #7
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Being non electric and with the serious water leak reducing water pressure, the control valve may not have enough pressure to regenerate. Fix the leak and it probably will regenerate.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member phoebe's Avatar
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    I am missing my softened water and cant afford £70+vat + parts call out fee. I can often fix things by myself ........ fingers crossed!!

  9. #9

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    Is the split on a hard plastic line or a flexible line. 3/8", 1/4"? What is the model number. You said you use a 'block salt type" unit? How big are these blocks (-+ 1/3 stone)?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by phoebe View Post
    Thanks again - could you comment on whether the split would account for the machine not regenerating?
    The crack in the hose will not prevent the unit to going thru a regen, but will cause it not to draw brine which will result in hard water.

  11. #11
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip Wolverton View Post
    The crack in the hose will not prevent the unit to going thru a regen, but will cause it not to draw brine which will result in hard water.
    Really. How do you know that the leak isn't big enough to rob enough pressure to cause the water powered control valve to not be able to move the valving? Or, that the water flowing to the leak isn't preventing the valve from moving?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  12. #12

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    I wonder what your incoming pressure is? If the excessive pressure caused both leaks, then a pressure suppressor/regulator may be needed. Check what maximum pressure is permitted with the softener and what is coming in your home.

    Quote Originally Posted by phoebe View Post
    Hi -

    I have a kinetico block salt softener about 12 y o. I currently have it isolated, as it recently flooded the kitchen. There is no obvious blockage in the overflow and water does drip through it, but when the machine is not isolated, water is flowing into the reserve tank at full pressure causing the water level inside to rise and rise until it floods over the top of where i put the salt in. I have tried trying to get it to manually regenerate, but it does not. The other thing that may be worth a mention is that, whilst investigating this problem, I have noticed that the open/close valves on the pipes to the machine leak when open.

    I have tried my local service engineers, but am waiting since Friday for a call back - any ideas please?

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    Really. How do you know that the leak isn't big enough to rob enough pressure to cause the water powered control valve to not be able to move the valving? Or, that the water flowing to the leak isn't preventing the valve from moving?
    We're talking about a 3/8 line vs a 3/4 or even 1"inlet/outlet. There is no way for a 3/8 line to rob enough water to prevent the unit from starting a regen. If that were the case, anytime the unit was in a fill cycle, the customer would not have water flow in the home.
    Last edited by Skip Wolverton; 08-20-2010 at 07:27 AM. Reason: added thoughts

  14. #14
    DIY Junior Member phoebe's Avatar
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    THank you for your help guys - I had to give in and call an engineer and am now £150 poorer.
    The hose was split, and the fact that it was and that the vacuum was not maintained after the overflow caused the machine to not regenerate ????
    Anyway - all fixed - hopefully I will be enjoying softened water again soon.

    Thanks again
    Phoebe x

    Oh - and the water pressure in the daytime at the outside tap was 95 - he recommended that I fit a pressure control valve....... but wants a further £150..... not much chance of that then!!

  15. #15
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Take note that daytime pressures are usually LOWER than nighttime peak pressures. At least in the US, a regulator is required when the pressure exceeds 80#. If you do add one, you will probably also need an expansion tank (assuming you have a tank type heater, which you may not), to prevent the water pressure rising while the water heater raises the temperature and the water expands. A PRV makes the system 'closed' in that that expansion can't be passed back to the mains.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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