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Thread: Help - Rainsoft Water Softener

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member lawyr's Avatar
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    Greetings all.....very new here,

    .....i decided to connect a used rainsoft softener unit as being discussed here in make and model that has been sitting in my garage for quite some time.... what have done is make some temporary connections inputting a garden hose to the input port on the valve and have left the "outlet" open to run onto the ground...i have a lot of iron in my CITY water and thusly, bought a "test" bag of particulate matter (salt) that specifically removes IRON and have emptied it into the large tank.

    .....i have powered the unit on and have set the time on the timer.....i put approx 1 gallon of water into the large tank....turning the hose on, i get flow exiting the valve onto the ground.
    ***NEW QUESTION; DOES THE BRINE TANK FILL UP AND IF SO, HOW FAR?.

    .....i am unsure as to HOW to set the valve and to even be sure that the unit it functioning correctly...my game plan is to be sure all is well BEFORE cutting my pipes for the full install....
    ***NEW QUESTION; THE VALVE WAS FROZEN BUT, I WAS UNABLE TO FREE IT UP. THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD MARKED ARROWS ON THE BYPASS VALVE. I FIGURED OUT HOW TO USE THE VALVE BUT, DOES ANYONE HAVE THE CORRECT H2O INPUT SECTION ON THE BYPASS VALVE TO BE SURE THE PREVIOUS OWNER DIDN'T SCREW UP? I WOULD HATE TO INPUT THE H20 INTO THE WRONG SECTION

    ....in the clear "filter/float device" i have just a bit of water inside, however, if i block up the output side with my hand, it will fill all the way up AND, i notice that there is a bit of water flowing into the brine tank....(must i have the output end closed up for water pressure to test?)......
    REINSTATE QUESTION; MUST I HAVE THE OUTPUT END OF THE BYPASS VALVE BLOCKED UP TO TEST AND FOR WATER TO BE FORCED THROUGH THE FILTER?

    ...this is the 1st softener i have ever owned and would rather test it before connections are made.....thanks for any help i can get!
    NEW STATEMENT; ISN'T THERE ANYONE WHOM CAN HELP ME HERE?

  2. #17
    DIY Junior Member lawyr's Avatar
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    Greetings all.

    EDITED...SOMEHOW POSTED TWICE...SORRY!
    Last edited by lawyr; 08-18-2011 at 06:35 AM. Reason: ACCIDENTALLY POSTED TWICE

  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lawyr View Post
    ***NEW QUESTION; DOES THE BRINE TANK FILL UP AND IF SO, HOW FAR?. The brine tank fills based on how much salt you set it for. 1 gallon of water will dissolve 3 lbs of salt. If you set it for 9 lbs of salt, the unit will fill 3 gallons of water.

    ***NEW QUESTION; THE VALVE WAS FROZEN BUT, I WAS UNABLE TO FREE IT UP. THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD MARKED ARROWS ON THE BYPASS VALVE. I FIGURED OUT HOW TO USE THE VALVE BUT, DOES ANYONE HAVE THE CORRECT H2O INPUT SECTION ON THE BYPASS VALVE TO BE SURE THE PREVIOUS OWNER DIDN'T SCREW UP? I WOULD HATE TO INPUT THE H20 INTO THE WRONG SECTION Are you saying the bypass was frozen? IIRC the bypass has a blue side and a red side. Push the blue side for soft water and the red for hard.

    REINSTATE QUESTION; MUST I HAVE THE OUTPUT END OF THE BYPASS VALVE BLOCKED UP TO TEST AND FOR WATER TO BE FORCED THROUGH THE FILTER?It is not necessary to block the outbound side but would be better if it were. That way it can be fully pressurized.

    NEW STATEMENT; ISN'T THERE ANYONE WHOM CAN HELP ME HERE?
    Yes. There are a lot of people here with years of experience.

  4. #19
    DIY Junior Member lawyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mialynette2003 View Post
    Yes. There are a lot of people here with years of experience.
    *******************
    ...thanks for the reply, however, this must be a dead section of the forum as nobody responds to the question....are there any other forums that are "ACTIVE" and to which people respond to the questions?......either that or just plainly nobody knows how to answer my questions.....

  5. #20
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Most of those that have years under the belt have a business to run and are on service calls...

    The system that you have is no longer sold by Rainsoft... they have changed to a different type of valve.

    Most likely the valve will need a rebuild as there should not be water going to the drain or brine tank if the system is in full service...

    Most likely it would be cheaper to start with a new system than to try and get the one that you have up and running again.

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member lawyr's Avatar
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    Most of those that have years under the belt have a business to run and are on service calls...
    I FULLY REALIZE THAT. I AM BOTH IN THE AC TRADE AND AN ELECTRICIAN SO I CAN RELATE.

    The system that you have is no longer sold by Rainsoft...
    I DIDN'T KNOW THAT

    they have changed to a different type of valve.
    I SEE, HOWEVER, THE VALVE IS WORKING FINE NOW AS FAR AS I CAN TELL.

    Most likely the valve will need a rebuild as there should not be water going to the drain or brine tank if the system is in full service...
    .....THIS IS THE PART THAT I AM CONFUSED ABOUT..... THE VALVE FUNCTIONS WELL SINCE I UN-FROZE IT BUT, THERE IS A PIECE OF BLACK TUBING THAT RUNS FROM THE SIDE OF THE UNIT INTO THE BRINE TANK AND HAS WATER RUNNING FROM IT INTO THE BRINE TANK CONTINUOUSLY.... I HAVE THE OPERATIONAL MANUALS FOR THIS UNIT THAT I DOWNLOADED BUT THEY AREN'T WORTH $HIT!....

    ...AFTER A BIT, IT WILL/SHOULD EVENTUALLY FILL UP THE BRINE TANK AND RUN OUT OF THE OVER-FLOW.....I MAY NOT BE FULLY UNDERSTANDING THE OPERATIONAL SETTINGS OF THE UNIT BUT, ALL ARE SET UP AS PER TIME.....


    ....I READ ABOUT BACK-WASHING (OR SIMILAR) BUT, NOT SURE WHERE THE DISCHARGE OF THAT IS SUPPOSED TO BE RUNNING OUT OF OR INTO!.....

    .....I SEE A TRANSPARENT CANISTER OF SORTS AND THERE IS ABOUT 3/8'' OF WATER IN IT AND NOT SURE WHAT THAT MEANS. IF I CAN DETERMINE THESE ISSUES, I WILL BE CONVINCED THAT THIS SYSTEM, ALTHOUGH NOT YET INSTALLED, IS ACTUALLY WORKING.

    Most likely it would be cheaper to start with a new system than to try and get the one that you have up and running again.
    ...WELL, THAT IS WHY I AM HERE - TO SEE IF WHAT I HAVE WORKS AND IF SO, DEVELOP AN UNDERSTANDING AS TO HOW TO USE IT AND THEN, TO INSTALL IT AS OPPOSED TO BUYING A NEW ONE.

  7. #22
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Sounds like the float assembly in the brine tank might not be closing when it should, it should reach a level and stop the water coming in like the tank on the toilet.
    That brine line is often a 3/8 line, the drain line is larger.
    Most of the older Rainsoft manuals are not very good.....
    The transparent canister is like the Autorol valve set up that uses that same deal.

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member lawyr's Avatar
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    Sounds like the float assembly in the brine tank might not be closing when it should, it should reach a level and stop the water coming in like the tank on the toilet.
    .THANKS FOR THE REPLY!!....I OPENED THE BRINE TANK AND ALL I SEE IS A LONG PLASTIC TUBE THAT APPEARS TO BE PART OF THE TANK....THERE IS A SMALLER TUBE/HOSE THAT RUNS FROM THAT CLEAR CANISTER I HAD MENTIONED AND DOWN INTO THE CENTER OF THAT TUBE (I HAVE NO IDEA AS TO WHAT THAT DOES)....THERE IS THAT LARGER BLACK TUBE THAT I MERELY DRAPED OVER THE EDGE TO DISCHARGE INTO THE BRINE TANK.....WHAT DOES THAT DISCHARGE?....SO IF I UNDERSTAND YOU CORRECTLY, THAT LARGER BLACK LINE THAT APPEARS TO HAVE A CONTINUOUS FLOW OF VERY LOW PRESSURE WATER NEEDS A FLOAT SHUT-OFF OF SORTS?...IF THAT IS CORRECT, LOOKS LIKE I MAY BE MISSING A PART!...MAYBE I CAN MAKE ONE OUT OF A NEW FLUID-MASTER TOILET VALVE ASSEMBLY.

    That brine line is often a 3/8 line, the drain line is larger.
    SEE ABOVE....THERE IS A "PORT" AT THE TOP SIDE OF THE BRINE TANK THAT I WAS TOLD WAS FOR THE OVER-FLOW....NOT SURE WHERE THE DRAIN LINE IS SUPPOSED TO BE OR ATTACHED TO...THERE IS A PREVIOUS POST THAT SHOWS A PICT OF THE CONTROL HEAD THAT SOMEONE TOOK...

    Most of the older Rainsoft manuals are not very good.....
    NO KIDDING!

    The transparent canister is like the Autorol valve set up that uses that same deal.
    IS THAT THE "REGULATOR" THAT DETERMINES HOW MUCH "SALT(?) OR WATER EVER FLOWS INTO THE TANK OR IS ADDED TO THE WATER?....

  9. #24
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    There are two ways of timing the water going into the brine tank, the control valve opens a valve for a time frame to let water into the brine tank or the float assembly is set so that x amount of water goes in to make a brine of x.
    If I remember the set up like yours it is in the brine tank that has a float set at a level to make x for brine.
    There is a larger line that comes off your valve to go to the DRAIN so that when the unit backwashes it goes down that drain.

  10. #25
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    Ok. Here is water softening 101. There are 4 basic cycles to a valve. Backwash...used to lift the resin bed and prep it for the brining cycle. Brining cycle...This is when brine is drawn into the unit to regen the resin. This can be split into 2 cycles (brine drawn and brine rinse). Rinse cycle..This cycle rinses the excess salt from the resin and packs the resin to prep it for service. The last cycle is service. The valve must refill the brine tank. This is done sometimes with the rinse cycle or after. With your valve, you should not have a brine fill with the unit in service. If you do, than a flapper is leaking by.

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member lawyr's Avatar
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    There are two ways of timing the water going into the brine tank, the control valve opens a valve for a time frame to let water into the brine tank or the float assembly is set so that x amount of water goes in to make a brine of x.
    THANK YOU...I DON'T SEE ANY "ELECTRICALLY OPERATED VALVES OF ANY SORT. I TOOK OFF TE FACE PLATE OF THE CONTROL HEAD TO LOOK AROUND AND NOTHING TO TALK ABOUT..NOW IT IS THE MISSING FLOAT ASSEMBLY I AM CONCERNED ABOUT..LOOKS LIKE I MAY BE FINISHED.

    If I remember the set up like yours it is in the brine tank that has a float set at a level to make x for brine.
    UGH!...SEE ABOVE

    There is a larger line that comes off your valve to go to the DRAIN so that when the unit backwashes it goes down that drain
    SO, THE BACKWASH GOES OUT OF TE SAME LINE THE THAT IS DISCHARGING WATER INTO THE BRINE TANK AS I MENTIONED?

  12. #27
    DIY Junior Member lawyr's Avatar
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    THANKS FOR THE REPLY
    Ok. Here is water softening 101. There are 4 basic cycles to a valve. Backwash...used to lift the resin bed and prep it for the brining cycle. Brining cycle...This is when brine is drawn into the unit to regen the resin. This can be split into 2 cycles (brine drawn and brine rinse). Rinse cycle..This cycle rinses the excess salt from the resin and packs the resin to prep it for service. The last cycle is service. The valve must refill the brine tank.
    SO, THE BRINE TANK WILL HAVE A DETERMINED AMOUNT OF WATER COVERING THE IRON REMOVING PELLETS I PUT IN?

    This is done sometimes with the rinse cycle or after. With your valve, you should not have a brine fill with the unit in service.
    COULD THIS BE BECAUSE I DO NOT HAVE THE FLOAT ASSEMBLY FOR THE BRINE TANK AS I MENTIONED?..I AM NOT AWARE OF ANY OTHER VISIBLE VALVES..

    If you do, than a flapper is leaking by.
    FLAPPER?????????...WHERE?

  13. #28
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Drain from the softener is just that drain and it DOES NOT GO INTO THE BRINE TANK, it goes down the drain like the Washer goes down the drain.
    I looked at a Rainsoft Brass that is like yours(most likely)that is in my used pile ,,, there may be a timed fill, but most likely there needs to be a float assembly in the brine tank.
    With the age of yours and the challenges that you are talking about and the possible missing parts and the time needed to get it right, a new fleck 2510 or 5600 complete with 2310 safety float in brine tank would be cheaper and quicker in getting treated water into the house.

  14. #29
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Drain from the softener is just that drain and it DOES NOT GO INTO THE BRINE TANK, it goes down the drain like the Washer goes down the drain.
    I looked at a Rainsoft Brass that is like yours(most likely)that is in my used pile ,,, there may be a timed fill, but most likely there needs to be a float assembly in the brine tank.
    With the age of yours and the challenges that you are talking about and the possible missing parts and the time needed to get it right, a new fleck 2510 or 5600 complete with 2310 safety float in brine tank would be cheaper and quicker in getting treated water into the house.

  15. #30
    DIY Junior Member lawyr's Avatar
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    Drain from the softener is just that drain and it DOES NOT GO INTO THE BRINE TANK, it goes down the drain like the Washer goes down the drain.
    OHHH, I SEE....IF YOU SAY THAT COMES FROM THE FLOAT ASSEMBLY, THEN, THE BACKWASH USES THE SAME LINE AS COMES FROM THE SIDE/BOTTOM AREA OF TE CONTROL HEAD S0-TO-SPEAK.

    I looked at a Rainsoft Brass that is like yours(most likely)that is in my used pile ,,,
    MINE RESEMBLES OR IS AS THE ONE DEPICTED AT THE START OF THIS THREAD.

    there may be a timed fill, but most likely there needs to be a float assembly in the brine tank.
    WHICH I AM MISSING, JUST A LONG HOLLOW TUBE THAT THE 3/8'' LINE FROM THE CLEAR CANISTER SNAKES THROUGH.

    With the age of yours and the challenges that you are talking about and the possible missing parts
    YEP....


    and the time needed to get it right, a new fleck 2510 or 5600 complete with 2310 safety float in brine tank would be cheaper and quicker in getting treated water into the house.
    UGH.....

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