Our cottage/lake house has well water service from 295 feet deep, and indications are that the pressure tank bladder has failed. We do not live there permanently, but the former owners did.
The pump cycling has increased to the point that if a toilet is flushed (1.3 gal?), the pump cycles. The WellMate 20 gallon tank shows condensation on the outside of it at about 8 inches from the floor. A friend said that means the bladder is shot. When combined with the frequent cycling, the fact that a lawn sprinkler system is also connected to the well, that we have two full bathrooms, etc., it seemed as though something needed fixing quickly. I've ignored it for two years (perhaps 25-30 days of use, and we turn the pump off when we're not there), but I'm getting more nervous that every time a faucet is opened the pump cycles.
The mechanical systems, including the water softener and pressure tank, are stored indoors in a small room (see photos). I had to keep a tank of the same diameter due to space limitations, so I purchased (online) a WellMate WM-9 30 gallon tank. Same diameter as the WM-6 that's there now, but it's taller. For those interested in a similar tank, these folks had the best price I could find, and I had it in two days: https://www.aquascience.net/wellmate...dex.cfm?id=515
The instructions appear to be somewhat easy to follow (the file is too large, so here's a link): http://www.wellmate.com/pdf/Resident...all_Manual.pdf
1) Since I am removing the same make/manufacturer tank, with the same size and location of fittings, should I have also purchased the Tee Package to install a new Brass Tee, Check Valve, Shutoff Valve, 1" NPTM x 1" Brass Barb, Boiler Drain, Pressure Relief Valve, preset at 100 PSI, Pressure Gauge, and Pressure Switch (30/50, 40/60, 50/70 or 60/80 PSI) ? Photo of that package is also included.
It's an extra $109 that I originally thought was unnecessary, but now I wonder whether that Tee Package would normally be installed during a tank replacement?
2) How can I verify the EXACT air pressure that the tank should have before turning the power back on and charging the tank? How can I verify whether the existing pressure switch is the correct PSI? Is it likely the preset air pressure in the new tank needs to be modified, whether more or less pressure?
3) To what extent should I also consider the purchase and installation of a Cycle Stop Valve for this residential application? At about $140 to buy it, I'll invest only if it's necessary or highly recommended.
This seems like a simple replacement, and I do have a reasonable measure of mechanical skill - though not with plumbing. Any advice, suggestions, cautions, etc., will be appreciated.
Photos also include the label on the old tank and on the new tank.