New well with H2S

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rivergal

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Had to drill a new well and have new issues, naturally. The following are the results of our water test:
Nitrates/Nitrites none
Alkalinity 200ppm
pH 9
Hardness 250ppm
Iron 3ppm
Copper 0
Bacteria Negative
H2S Present (smell test)

System would presently service a 2 bath household with 2 persons, but would like the system to be able to support up to 4 persons, as we have elderly parents who may be moving in at some point.

We previously had a chlorination/dechlorination system that is no longer viable, and I'd like to replace with a non-chemical solution if possible. Since we have no bacteria, I think this is doable.

I'm looking at the air injector system at Abundant Flow Water AI25, air injection into Filox tank with Fleck 2510XST. http://www.abundantflowwater.com/products/AISystem.php

Also looked at AerMax with Centaur Backwashing Filter http://www.pwgazette.com/aermax.htm

Would appreciate feedback on either system, or recommendations for other options. Would like at some point to address the hardness, but it's not the big issue. Obviously the H2S is, given its effect on plumbing, appliances, etc.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 

Skip Wolverton

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The Aermax is a piece of junk. You will have nothing but trouble with them. I went on a service call this week and the customer had one of them from Culligan. He told me that within weeks, Culligan sold him a chlorinator to solve the problem. You may not have bacteria right now, but what is in place to prevent it in the future? Chlorination/dechlorination is the best and least expensive in the long run. If you really don't want chlorination, look into greensand media.
 

rivergal

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Thanks for the info on AerMax, Skip. Will steer clear of them. If you or anyone has had experience with the Abundant Flow product, I'd be interested to hear about that.

I understand the benefits of chlorination, and that if I did have bacteria in the future, it would take care of that. However, for several reasons would like to avoid chemicals if possible, and since now I have no bacteria, I am very interested in aeration rather than chlorination.

As has been said in this and other forums, all we can treat is the water as it is now. If at some point I have to add chlorination or another bacteria eliminating solution, so be it. Same as for any other contaminant that might pop up in my water supply.

Another question for me is whether aeration would be appropriate given the alkaline level in my water, or if that makes a difference.
 

Akpsdvan

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What kind of flow rate do you have from the pump in the well?
What kind of flow rate are you going to need for inside the house?

I do have an idea as to a media but the flow rate from the well and its recovery rate need to be answered.
 

rivergal

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Sorry to take a few days to get back to the question. Flow rate is calculated at 5gpm, which is the desired flow rate for the house as well.
 

Akpsdvan

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So much for the idea that I had...
Flow rate for the back wash for the media that I was thinking of is 10gpm.
 

NHmaster3015

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that would be why they went with air injection, which btw, I also dislike immensly however, if they are maintained properly, they do work.
 

rivergal

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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news on the flow rate. I don't suppose you have any other ideas, maybe second choices?

Also, would be interested to know the reason for the strong dislike of air injection, Wally. Maintenance? Frequency of failure?
 

NHmaster3015

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Maintenance mostly. the line between the injector and the tank has a tendency to fill with sediment and crap. Occasionally the air injector itself will also plug up. Then there is the tank media that will need to be replaced when it gets too loaded to be effective anymore. If you can put up with the water condition for things like cleaning and bathing you might do well to install an RO filter for drinking and cooking water.
 

Skip Wolverton

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I have seen just carbon remove the h2s. If it's not real strong and you have a backwashing valve you may be happy. They do have aeration tanks where the water is sprayed into a holding tank. This requires a repressurization pump. As far as an oxidation media, your gpm output is to low to properly backwash the media.
 

rivergal

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Other than chlorination and greensand/pp, then, are there other alternatives i should be considering? Carbon only for H2S is an interesting possibility.
 

big dripper

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Using carbon only would have a relatively short life. Once exhausted, it would need to be rebedded. A backwashing carbon has the advanatages of 'cleaning' itself, the the water volume used in backwashing further reduces it service life.

The media used to 'collect' the precipitant, should not be affected by it and after backwashing, rids most of the precipitant to start all over again. This where a long service life can be appreciated cutting operational costs.
 

Akpsdvan

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Other than chlorination and greensand/pp, then, are there other alternatives i should be considering? Carbon only for H2S is an interesting possibility.

One cubic of green sand media is going to need 5gpm but only give a flow rate into the rest of the house of 2.5 gpm............
Ozone might be a choice to look into... bring into a 300 gallon tank with ozone bubbler.... but that would be inside... or a building by its self..

Any chance of getting the driller to drill a new well with more flow?
 

Gary Slusser

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Maintenance mostly. the line between the injector and the tank has a tendency to fill with sediment and crap. Occasionally the air injector itself will also plug up. Then there is the tank media that will need to be replaced when it gets too loaded to be effective anymore. If you can put up with the water condition for things like cleaning and bathing you might do well to install an RO filter for drinking and cooking water.
Her AerMax (air pump) system is not an air injection system, there is no injector, it uses a medical grade air compressor.

I have sold a fair number of them and they usually work very well but they are expensive and because of potential present and future bacteria problems I went to an inline pellet chlorinator.

I question 5 gpm. Two showers use 5 gpm, so I can't see how a max of 5 gpm can service a house. Pressure is adjustable on any well system and I think the pressure should be checked and the flow measured again.
 

big dripper

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WALLY HAYS

Maintenance mostly. the line between the injector and the tank has a tendency to fill with sediment and crap. Occasionally the air injector itself will also plug up.


I think what you meant by "injector" was the actual location where inducted air makes contact with the water, right. Of course it is not like a fuel injection system found in automobile engines, but rather a generic description to illustrate that 'that point' or part (non-moving or otherwise) could cause clogging problems, right? That's the way I interpreted it, anyway.

Also, Aermax comes in two types of "injectors" (if I may use that term?): air compressor and venturi. I hadn't assumed she had indicated either one; with 3ppm iron, though, I would have recommended the air compressor over the venturi for more effecient removal and better water flow rate. Generally, a few hundred dollars more, though.

"Abundant Flow" is a name of a company, isn't it? If so, they carry typical products and may suggest to customize a system for you, but so could a local dealer, I suppose.
 
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rivergal

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Great minds think alike Gary. Yes, I also questioned the flow rate myself this morning. I had been using a faucet that's installed just downstream from the pressure tank for my measurements, which had, (I assumed) just a hose adapter. But just to be sure I took it off and it not only had a backflow preventer, it was also clogged with some grit and pebbles, likely in there from when the well was initially dug. Took that off and retested the flow, and naturally, much higher (likely 8-10 gpm).

My face is red, my hair isn't blond (the last time I checked). Good news is I can do oxidation media. Right now I'm leaning more toward the Abundant Flow System, which uses Filox and an air bubble. If you haven't checked the link in my original post, here it is again: http://www.abundantflowwater.com/products/AISystem.php
 

Gary Slusser

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There ya go, good job. I strongly advise against the "air bubble" type filters. They usually don't work or not for long. If they did work, many web sites and local dealers would be selling them, and they aren't/don't. So stay away from the odd type stuff. You'd spend less money on a new air dryer for your ozone system and new mineral if needed.
 

jimtum

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Can you tell me if the water hardness is 250 mg/l or gpg. I would guess mg/l. If it is mg/l you really only need a 1.5 cu ft softener. It will take out the iron if it is 3ppm though I would have a turbulator distributor tube put in the tank and a resup feeder in the brine tank. You should really be okay with this. If you really want an iron filter, I would recommend the Iron Breaker. It has a chamber of air inside the media tank and oxidizes the iron there. You would only need a 1.5 cu ft tank and I would use a 5600 valve non digital. Your pump should be producing 10gpm unless you have a 5gpm pump in your well. The well drillers usually install a 10gpm pump and you can call him and ask. But you should have no problem with it. I would do more research on greensand because it needs to be regenerated and that can be messy. The best oxidizer in my opinion is air, it is free and not harmful.
 
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