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Thread: Does this toilet bend need replacing?

  1. #1
    DIY Member Kimster's Avatar
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    Default Does this toilet bend need replacing?

    Hello everyone,

    I've been busy demolishing the bathroom and have gotten to the point where I need to address the plumbing. House is 1956, most of the plumbing has been changed to copper except what's in the walls in the bathroom. Will be going copper to Pex for the sink, shower and toilet supply lines.

    What I'm not sure about is the toilet waste pipe. We had replaced the toilet that came with the house 10 years ago and I know we have a lead toilet flange. I think, having looked at what they're supposed to look like when they're new, ours was broken. We didn't know any better and doubled-up on the wax rings when we put the new toilet on and it hasn't leaked.

    Now, with this reno, I'd like to replace everything that needs changing out, so I know I'll need a new flange, but what about the pipe bend below that? Is it also lead? It's hooked up to a cast stack but it looks like it's in bad shape, to me.

    What say you? Is this a DIY job or do I need to call a professional?




    Thanks,
    Kim

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The rubber seal and pipe take me very little time to pop in.
    I can't imagine why hj would think it would be so hard.

    I use a 2x4 on the end of the pipe and a hammer. A couple of taps with the hammer and it's seated.


    I normally just pull the lead out of the cast iron tee, and use a 4x3 flush bush into a insert rubber pipe donut.
    I used a 4" hub closet flange with this.

    Last edited by Terry; 07-27-2010 at 01:29 PM.

  3. #3
    DIY Member Kimster's Avatar
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    Thanks, Terry! -- and so quick. I think my brother and I can manage to do this. It looks like it's easiest to work from above, so I'll have to cut the floor out a bit.

    Another question -- while I'm doing this, is it possible for me to change the rough-in length? Right now it's 10" but can we make it 11 or 12 or is there some code that governs that?

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    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimster View Post
    Thanks, Terry! -- and so quick. I think my brother and I can manage to do this. It looks like it's easiest to work from above, so I'll have to cut the floor out a bit.

    Another question -- while I'm doing this, is it possible for me to change the rough-in length? Right now it's 10" but can we make it 11 or 12 or is there some code that governs that?
    I'll chime in here!

    No code violations there, in fact 12" off FINISHED wall to center of the flange is the norm. So that'd be 12.5" to center off the studs (assuming you're going with 1/2" dry wall).

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    DIY Member Kimster's Avatar
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    It'll be 1/2 inch Durock plus a 3/8 inch tile. I'll have to measure how far out the toilet would protrude from the wall. It's a really small bathroom and the toilet can't be in the way of the door.

    I also noticed that in Terry's picture, the bend is quite close to the level of the bathroom floor, where mine is almost at the bottom of the 9" joist, so it's a longer distance from the flange to the bend. Is there another piece of 4" pipe I'll be needing to make up that distance?

  6. #6
    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    You only need to worry about the tile behind the toilet if it's going to extend up to the height at which the toilet tank sits.

    If you're unsure just rough the toilet it at 13" off finished wall.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    With the depth of your joist, you would use a hub x hub 90 bend, a section of pipe, and then a closet flange.

    Most new toilets allow for 1/2" to 1" behind the tank on a 12" rough to finished wall.
    You may want to put your toilet up against a wall, and measure to the bolt holes, and then add 1/2" to be safe.
    Or you can rough at 12" from finished wall, Like Doherty mentions, some plumbers cut the hole at 13" from the rough studs, but you may want to go a little shorter if you have door issues.

  8. #8
    DIY Member Kimster's Avatar
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    Thanks, both of you! Should I be able to find these products at the orange home store or should I be ordering them from a plumbing supply place? Also, is this ABS or PVC?

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    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimster View Post
    Thanks, both of you! Should I be able to find these products at the orange home store or should I be ordering them from a plumbing supply place? Also, is this ABS or PVC?
    I'd go to a plumbing supply house like the nearest Andrew Sheret to you!

    ABS, not PVC

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    DIY Member Kimster's Avatar
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    You guys are great. I'm in Winnipeg. There's gotta be a real plumbing place here. I'll find it. If not, I'll order online.

    Cheers!

  11. #11
    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimster View Post
    You guys are great. I'm in Winnipeg. There's gotta be a real plumbing place here. I'll find it. If not, I'll order online.

    Cheers!
    Winnipeg eh? My sister and her husband just drove to Winterpeg for a couple of weeks visit with family!

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    DIY Member Kimster's Avatar
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    Well, it's a far cry from winterpeg right now. With the humidity, it feels like 41. Of course, if you show up in January, that number will have a minus in front of it

  13. #13
    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimster View Post
    Well, it's a far cry from winterpeg right now. With the humidity, it feels like 41. Of course, if you show up in January, that number will have a minus in front of it
    So I hear!!!!!

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    When I install a cast iron bend with a lead joint, I never have to worry about it "wiggling". "cleaning out" the hub to get rid of the corrosion, for the "donut" to seal properly, takes longer than making a new joint.

  15. #15
    DIY Member Kimster's Avatar
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    HJ, I don't even know what making a new joint means or how it's accomplished. The instructions Terry posted seem simple enough, but of course, when it comes down to actually doing it, there may be things we'll run into that have to be addressed.

    Just out of curiosity, what would be a reasonable charge to do this job plus change out the galvanized in the wall and connect it to the copper in the basement (pipes all accessible) for a shower valve and head, sink and toilet and replace the sink waste pipe to the stack and add shut off valves at the fixtures? All pipes are exposed because bathroom is gutted.

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