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Thread: Any problems with this bathroom layout?

  1. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    If the pocket doors fit in behind the shower, my preference is to build the wall out some to support the tile better than the shallow supports they ususally come with. Also, for the pocket door hardware, check out www.johnsonhardware.com. I was very impressed with their line of hardware. I ended up with a two channel trolly for a heavier door than I had need of, and it is quiet, and moves with barely a push from one end of the track to the other. They have various systems for doors weighing up to (I think) 300#), so they're all overkill for any typical door you might have in a home. I think mine was rated for 150#. Their thin stud replacements are wood wrapped in a metal U-channel to make them stiffer (and straighter!) than the typical stuff you see. I didn't use them, though, and built a normal 2x4 wall for the pocket at the head end of my tub/shower. This gave me room for the plumbing and the flexural strength I felt I needed for the tile.
    Tks, I was looking at ^ earlier this morning. Google has become my best friend lately..lol Glad to hear good reviews on their hardware. Oh, I already planned on building the wall out due to electrical, like adding a 2 x 3 onto the exisiting framing.
    Last edited by trinitony; 08-23-2010 at 11:24 AM.

  2. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by trinitony View Post
    This is final - it will my third time moving the entrance on the right to my master closet. After visiting showrooms this past weekend, we saw an 8' vanity (3+3+ 2' makeup station) which wifey must have.

    What you guys think?
    oops, that diag' should read 13' 8" and 10' 8"

  3. #18

    Default pocket doors are in...

    shown with some spare doors I have...the main entrance to the bathroom, and the entrance to the master closet...
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  4. #19

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    I ended up putting 36" between the toilet and the knee wall. I've run cut off valves into the knee wall for the bathroom.

    What is the typical height and depth of a knee wall?

  5. #20
    DIY Member WorthFlorida's Avatar
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    Thumbs up A nice layout compared to the first ones.

    I see a possible few problems.

    1) To stand in front of the right hand sink it looks like the corner of the tub frame will it be in the way?
    2) Also, does the right hand vanity have a door or draws on the very far right. A door it will bang into the tub frame and may not open all the way.
    3) If there are draws, will they be able to be opened enough?
    4) Where is the door for the shower? It should be facing the vanity.

  6. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by WorthFlorida View Post
    I see a possible few problems.

    1) To stand in front of the right hand sink it looks like the corner of the tub frame will it be in the way?
    2) Also, does the right hand vanity have a door or draws on the very far right. A door it will bang into the tub frame and may not open all the way.
    3) If there are draws, will they be able to be opened enough?
    4) Where is the door for the shower? It should be facing the vanity.
    Been away for a bit, actually in sunny florida..lol..need to get back focused.

    1,2,& 3 I'm aware of and may end up going with a 6'. And for right now I have the shower door (slider), facing the toilet. ? - why should it be facing the vanity? Tks...

  7. #22
    DIY Member WorthFlorida's Avatar
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    Lake Worth, Florida
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    I was seeing that a swing door on the shower and the 30" mark on the wall (I assume another door) would be hitting each other or just in the way of each other as when they are opened. The picture looks like the 30" door swings away from the bathroom because I do not see any hinges. Then you write it will be a slider door for the shower, so it is probably OK. If it was my bath I would make the shower a neo-angle in that corner. It gives it more class & glass. The door would swing in or out (frame-less glass) and you would egress into the shower more in the middle of the room. With this much planning it will come out nice. Three years ago I gutted my master bath. After five months the wife was very happy. Be sure to use quality fixtures and porcelain tile. Frame-less glass is expensive but well worth it and nothing is better than granite counters. I attached a link to my project so you can see the pictures. I did gut it down to the outside CBS wall because of mold and all around the tub and shower, but I have no pictures of that part of the project. My project cost about $6,000 and I did all of it myself except the glass and granite. The six foot vanity from the big box store that starts with L was $1100 with taxes, granite was about $900 plus $200 for sinks, glass was $1350. These three items were 1/2 the cost. The four faucets (2 sinks, tub, shower) cost $500+. A new tub, Kohler cast iron $325, Kohler toilet $160. It sure adds up fast. Every visit to the big box orange store I was spending $50-$75 just for tools, parts, fittings, etc. The porcelain tile ran $1200. So be careful and count your money as the project goes on. At the end it is worth it.. If you do not see a link or pictures go to this link. http://picasaweb.google.com/WorthFlorida/Bathroom#
    Last edited by WorthFlorida; 10-28-2010 at 06:06 PM. Reason: grammar corrections

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