Reply With QuoteOK, great. I kind of like the idea of a thicker wax ring if I can find one thick enough. But, I'll check into the waxless ones as well.
Thanks for letting me know my options!
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Wax rings are available in various thicknesses, and with a horn or funnel embedded in them. It will be obvious when you look at what's available there. I'd just use a waxless ring...cost a little more, but a lot cleaner, especially if you ever decide to take the toilet up (say to paint behind it or replace) - no wax to muck with.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013
OK, great. I kind of like the idea of a thicker wax ring if I can find one thick enough. But, I'll check into the waxless ones as well.
Thanks for letting me know my options!
OK, hopefully my last dumb question. The ring package says to apply an inch high layer of plumber's putty all around the perimeter of the toilet before placing the toilet on the floor. This sounded like an awful lot of putty. Plus, the toilet at my store has no putty at all. It was grouted in with a pretty thick layer of grout, and it is nice and stable for 5 years now. Do I need putty, or is grout fine???
Oops. Nevermind. I found another post asking the same question. It seems to me that grout would work well, and would act as a shim, but it would be difficult to remove the toilet without cracking it in the future. If the floor isn't quite level and I need to shim the toilet, is there anything typically used for this? I don't want to use wood shims for obvious reasons.
You can buy plastic shims. Look in the area where they sell doors. You don't want the short, steep ones they sell to level furniture. Personally, I just use some coins - pennies, dimes, nickels unless it is really far off. Some places require you to seal around the front of the toilet. This prevents 'misses' from leaking underneath where it is really hard to then clean. The recommended material for this seems to be Polyseamseal. This will come off later as opposed to say something like silicon caulk. Leave the back open.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013
It turns out the floor is pretty level so I didn't need the shims. The double wax ring seems to have worked. Thanks for the tips, Jim.
That lead bend is NOT a good candidate for a flange "extender". They require a flat surface, which you DO NOT have.
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