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Thread: vent for basement drain UPC

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member blitziger's Avatar
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    Default vent for basement drain UPC

    I'm replacing an old basement floor drain that neither has a trap or a vent. The drain is in the lowest spot in the basement and is required for the occasional foundation leak. The new drain will be inspected. I've read quite a bit on this forum about the necessity for a trap primer and I have bought a PPP priming adapter to go above the trap and a ProFlo PFP 2500 valve (I've seen other brands recommended here, but this is what Ferguson had on hand.)

    I'll be replacing the whole drain to where it intersects with an existing updated main drain, and adding a basement sink and new vent at the sink. The new sink drain will intersect with the new floor drain 16' away from the floor drain. The Oregon Plumbing Code section 1006.0 states that no venting is required for 6' for a 2" floor drain, but it looks like some sort of venting is required.

    Can I run a horizontal vent to the nearest wall which is 3' behind the drain? (3' in the opposite direction of the drain slope.)

    Thanks for any advice.

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Can you reroute the sink drain so it intersects closer to the floor drain? Without a sink "washing" the horizontal vent to keep it clear, it will probably NOT pass inspection.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    If you use proper waste fittings below grade for the vent, you should be okay in Oregon. It works in Washington to the North.
    Wye fittings, no santee on the vent if you are taking it off the horizontal line.

    Oregon uses the UPC plumbing code.

    Here is a nice link to Bert Polk's plumbing tips
    Last edited by Terry; 07-11-2010 at 04:11 PM.

  4. #4
    Plumber Winslow's Avatar
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    If it is not currently trapped then it most likely isn't tied into the sewer system, otherwise you would got gas backing up, roaches and/or vermin coming in and out of the drain. If the primary reason for the drain is to catch ground water then by the UPC cannot be tied into the sewer.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member blitziger's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies -- I've been on vacation, so haven't had a chance to read them.

    HJ:
    There is no way to get the sink drain closer. My understanding is that the tap drip will substitute for the wash of an active fixture.

    Terry:
    I've tried to find a specific exception in the UPC (and I've have left three messages with the Portland Building Services plumbing inspections department and have received no call backs, so, I'm planning on going down in person with my questions). If I follow your suggestion, I can have a wye fitting come of the side of the drain and then head horizontally back to the wall 3' away? I have a severe limit to my total slope, so I only have about an 1-1/2" to play with at the drain to keep the vent below the slab. I'll ask the inspectors if that will pass code. One other thought I've had is to run the drain pipe back to the wall, then have two 90s with a vertical tee-vent in between. Adds to the total drain run but keeps the 1/4" slope and might meet the spirit of the code.

    Winslow:
    A trap is located just before the tie-in to the new sewer pipe some twenty feet away. It has a vertical pipe above it that currently drains the old basement sink which I'm relocating.
    Last edited by blitziger; 07-11-2010 at 05:19 PM.

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