moving a toilet-- waste line concerns UPC

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Dradam

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Moving a toilet from one side of the bathroom to the other about 3 feet away along same wall. current configuration toilet connects to the waste stack obliquely. there is a very short distance to stack which is behind and to the right side of the closet flange.

Goal is to bring 3 inch pvc from new location within its joist cavity over about 3- 4feet to the left ( 1/4bend under closet flange) then drop it down under the joists( 1/4 bend down and 1/4 bend back ) in a soffit for about 2 feet and then another 1/4 bend back to stack where it will join a sanitary y. Basically looping around to the same stack.

New location will require less than 12 feet of run ( probably about 8ft total)
there will be at least 1/4 inch per foot or more.
there will be a total of 4 1/4 bends.

My other option going more directly back to the waste stack would require less distance and only 2 1/4 bends it would involve structural modifications to the joist (boxing in the flange) which I would rather not do.

To the question:

If pitch 1/4 inch per foot) and length (less than 12 ft) are maintained are the added length and elbows of the loop plan reasonable or doomed to clogs.?

If the run is less than 12 feet is any additional venting required?

Thank you

I hope I am being clear enough.

In Washington State, toilets require venting within six feet, 2" minimum.
Only 135 degrees of horizontal change on a trap arm allowed.
If the pipe is black, it's ABS, PVC is white.
 
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hj

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Depends on your code. HERE, toilets DO NEED vents, (I think Washington is the same way), and you can only run 6' before you have to connect to one. Four 90's would violate almost every rule of good plumbing, but it would probably work.
 

NHmaster3015

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What's a swooping 90?

Just trying to be helpful. I been accused of being anti diy on another thread here. :(

IPC says that the toilet to vent distance is " unlimited" which petty much means there has to be a vent somewhere in the system. Toilets are self siphoning fixtures. They are designed to siphon the entire contents of the bowl and trap when flushed and then the flush valve re-fills the trap. 4 elbows would certainly not be good plumbing practice. Perhaps you could do it with 1/8 bends instead.
 

Terry

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Make sure the plumbing inspector gets a good look, when you sell your home in Washington State, you are required to list all modifications to the home and whether proper permits were used. It can come back to bite you later.

An inspection can also catch problems before you cover the work.
We had a job last month where the woman of the house had a toilet moved five feet. It now clogs monthly on that short little five foot line.
Something wasn't done right in Sammamish.
She said that a general did the work, but many generals now don't hire plumbers or permit the plumbing.
They hack it in and the owner has problems later on. The funniest one was where the tile guy was dumping bits of tile and mortar down the toilet drain. Too lazy to carry it outside I guess.
 
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Dradam

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Thank you for your advice. I appreciate your input and have always found the forum extremely helpful.

AGT
 

Winslow

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Horizontal offsets in the trap arm of a toilet cannot exceed 135 degrees. You cannot turn the trap arm down vertically then turn it back to horizontal. You would need to revent the toilet before you turn it down.
 
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