(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Zone will not shut down

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member ronnieray's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10

    Default Zone will not shut down

    Ran my system today and when it got to the final zone, it did not shut down even though the control box showed the zone to be off. Otherwise, the system work flawlessly. The valves are toro flo pro ( I know not the best but were in when we purchased the home 12 years ago). I suspect a bad solenoid but thought I would check here to see if the pros have different ideas for a fix. Thanks

  2. #2
    Irrigation Contractor Fireguy97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Kamloops, in Beautiful British Columbia
    Posts
    100

    Default

    I would look at the diaphram before looking at the solonoid. It could be material not letting the diaphram re-seat or a worn diaphram. For twelve years, I would remove the entire top of the valve and replace with a new one of the same design (if you can get it).

    If you can't find someone that has a Flo Pro, you might want to consider replacing the entire Valve instead of just the diaphram. Toro discontinued production of the Flo Pro valve several years ago. Most of the problems with the Flow Pro were that they wouldn't come on.

    Mick
    Last edited by Fireguy97; 07-02-2010 at 04:10 PM.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member ronnieray's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Thanks Fireguy97. I talked to toro and they still have replacement parts available from local distributors. But if its like everything else, I would imagine I can buy new valve cheaper than replacing the entire top. I will look for debris and check the diaphragm. I have a new one that Toro sent me free a few years ago. I hope it works for a fix because replacing the valve looks like a real pain. The box has three valves and this one is in the most inaccessible position. Isn't this always the case ....

  4. #4
    Irrigation Contractor Fireguy97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Kamloops, in Beautiful British Columbia
    Posts
    100

    Default

    What I normally do is to charge the client for a new valve, then replace the entire top, including the guts. You are correct the valve is less expensice than the parts.

    Mick

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,673

    Default

    You can buy a new valve cheaper, but installing it can be a real hassel, which is why repairing the valve is a better option when possible. A bad diaphragm, unless the "bypass" port is clogged, will usually not turn on. If it doesn't turn off, it usually means the solenoid is not seating to close the pressure relief passage.

  6. #6
    Irrigation Contractor Fireguy97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Kamloops, in Beautiful British Columbia
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    You can buy a new valve cheaper, but installing it can be a real hassel, which is why repairing the valve is a better option when possible. A bad diaphragm, unless the "bypass" port is clogged, will usually not turn on. If it doesn't turn off, it usually means the solenoid is not seating to close the pressure relief passage.
    That's why I suggested to purchase a new valve (of the same design), and replace the entire top. Solinoid, diaphram, spring, etc. This way you get the benifits of a new valve without the PITA hassel of changing out the entire valve.

    And a bad diaphram can cause the zone to continue running. If the diaphram is cracked or torn, it won't seat properly and water will continue to run.

    Mick

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member ronnieray's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10

    Unhappy

    I thought it best to update on my valve problem. It turned out that it wasn't the diaphragm, but debris in the small passages between the solenoid and the valve body. After a good cleaning and reassembly the zone turned on and shut off as it is supposed to.

    I will take the advice given and purchase new valves of the same model while they are still available. The idea of using the new parts to refurbish the existing valves is one that I will take to heart. I dreaded the idea of digging out the existing valves since the box is in a flower bed. And the refurbish option didn't occur to me. So thanks everyone for the help.

Similar Threads

  1. Converting a manual switch heating zone to a thermostat heating zone
    By breilly629 in forum HVAC Heating & Cooling
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-12-2010, 01:04 PM
  2. Replies: 21
    Last Post: 01-03-2010, 01:15 PM
  3. Boiler not firing up for 2nd zone, only 1st zone
    By bjferri in forum HVAC Heating & Cooling
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-04-2009, 03:50 PM
  4. Well guy...made my 4 zone sprinkler sys, now a 2 zone???
    By iPhoneSRQ in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-21-2009, 07:58 AM
  5. Dual zone vs. Single zone?
    By zombieman in forum HVAC Heating & Cooling
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-04-2009, 04:48 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •