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Thread: Elevators, to pull a 1" string of PVC with submersible pump?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member JohnD2007's Avatar
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    Default Elevators, to pull a 1" string of PVC with submersible pump?

    Hello,

    Newbie here,

    Am considering (attempting) pulling my 1/2 HP submersible pump (9 yr old sta-rite J series) from
    my apprx 80' water well, alone.

    The last time I pulled, & replaced pump, we were a 3 man crew. Is it possible, to construct
    a tripod, and are there elevators & slips, for pulling 1" PVC (200 psi) pipe as a DIY, one
    man job? I'm also no electrician, but have bought a volt meter. From testing at control
    box, seems a blown/burnt pump (from nearby recent lightning strike) is likely the problem.
    As of 3 yrs ago, my home has been on a city water system, so I'm not in a bind for water
    inside, just my landscape is thirsty. Few tomato plants, shrubs, & hedges, etc.

    This well still has the original 1" PVC pipe in it. I'm not a hundred percent sure yet that the
    9 yr old pump is bad, my elec pwr chord could be parted, etc. With the PVC being 29 years
    old, (well drilled 1981) should I go ahead and replace it too, if I find the pump has to be replaced?

    Any other grisled veteran advice for a rookie would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    JohnD2007

  2. #2
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    You can pull that by hand and have a kid walk the pipe out of the way. Replace everything unless its 200psi POLY pipe.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member JohnD2007's Avatar
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    Thanks Ballvalve,

    The 1" drop pipe is the 200 PSI variety. Was wondering with it being 29 yrs old, if
    I'd be money ahead to change out the old PVC, if/when I have to replace the
    pump. I think it is/was on this forum that I also read that the best, and only needed
    check valve is the one that usually comes attached at the top of most submersible
    pumps.

    My well's PVC casing is 5". I've also picked up some 'Centralizers' for it, which it's
    not had before. Seems some are for centralizers, and some seem to think they
    are more harm, than help. Would also like thoughts on that option. Total well
    depth; 83', with pump set at 79'. I kept the Driller's bill, and parts list from 1981.
    Total cost, with air tank & Jacuzzi 1/2 HP pump was apprx $1450 dollars.

    Thanks guys,

    John

    PS: (non water well issue)
    Fine DIY online site. I'm also stubbing my toe, repeatedly, changing out the speed
    switch, on a ceiling fan. Forgot to make notations of which wires were connected,
    when I removed the old one. Guess I will need to browse the electrical/fan section
    of this forum. I like the idea of trying to fix the fan (inside) more than my idea of
    maybe pulling my pump alone. Much cooler inside, than out, this time of yr.

  4. #4
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    PVC comes apart every 20-21 feet IF it has threaded fittings. Polyethylene is one piece and either black or blue. PVC is white or off white but I don't know any with only a 200 PSI rating; unless it is sch 20 etc..

    If you have someone to walk the pipe out and circle the well, one guy should be able to lift it out before having to rest but if you had to, tell the person to not let go. If I had 30 year old PVC I'd replace it but not poly.

    Check the pump and cable with this.
    http://www.franklin-electric.com/bus...M/page-43.aspx and this

    http://www.franklin-electric.com/bus...M/page-13.aspx
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  5. #5
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    I am going to start using a check valve from Dean Bennet supply that screws right into the head of a 1.25" submersible outlet and reduces to 1" at the outlet. Its only 22 bucks and you typically need a reducer anyway. Seems like cheap and easy back up to the variable quality of some built in check valves on pumps. Here in earthquake and hard rock/gravel country, I run schd 40 or less heavy 4" pipe all the way to the bottom of the well and slot the last several sections. In that case, I dont use centerers, or very few, and one gets a nice smooth wall for the wires to live in. No root, rock or cave in issues.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member JohnD2007's Avatar
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    Good idea, and good location for it to be stacked right there above pump discharge. I'll ck it out, hopefully it's Brass. I've learned that I don't want
    any galvanized pieces in my line or system, as they don't last as long as Brass, or PVC parts either. 22 Bucks is cheap insurance, and good money
    spent if it avoids having to pull a pump down the road. Thanks Ballvalve.

    J/D

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