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Thread: 3" ouside fit flange too low...

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Joe Commisso's Avatar
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    Default 3" ouside fit flange too low...

    Hi this is my first post on the forum after days of lurking trying to find the answer to my question. I have taken the advise on this forum and not used a inside fit 3" flange tofit inside my old damaged abs flange, which I need to raise due to travertine tile I am waiting to lay. So I rented a jackhammer and broke around the old flange and painstakingly chipped away the old flange from the "soil pipe"..aka 3" pipe sticking out of ground. I then dry fit the 4x3 abs flange OVER this pipe; however it appears the "sleeve"...sorry for my horrible pluming terminology...the "sleeve" of the flange only overlaps the pipe by 1 inch at most, and I cannot push it further down or the tile and thinset will not fit under. Here is a pic to better explain:

    I put those tile scraps there and raise the flange 1/8 over it and as you can see there is a massive gap between the top of the cut soil pipe and the flange.. so here are my questions:

    1. what is the name of the proper flange to use in my situation given theta the pipe is cut too low and I need the flange to rest flush on top finished floor.

    2. should cut edge of the 3" pipe be snug against the bottom of the flange as to not create a "lip" and possiblity for water to escape through gaps, or is this not a big deal.

    3. what is the best method for installing the flange after the tile is installed..can I dry fit everything and then pour the concrete, while wrapping 3" pipe with cardboard, go ahead and tile with the notches for the screws, then remove the cardboard slip in the flange with glue and screw so that it is for sure a snug fit between tile and flange?

    4. assuming you guys have a good flange recommendation and that is out of the way..when I do pour the concrete, how many days does it take before I should hammer-drill into it to fasten with tapcons. I'm worried if too soon it won't bite properly; however I need to finish this asap and can't afford to wait a week. I have read about an epoxy solution, is this where that comes into play?

    Thanks a lot for taking the time to read through this, hope to here from some pros soon, the sooner I get done with this washroom the sooner I can have my life back, get a paying job, and spend more time with my baby son.
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    Last edited by Terry; 06-15-2010 at 11:43 PM.

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Most of the plumbers do not like the all-plastic flanges...they want one that has a stainless steel ring on it. There may be some brands of flanges that have a longer throat which would give you more overlap. What you have would probably work, but see what the pros have to say.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member Joe Commisso's Avatar
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    Thanks Jim
    I'll be looking for one with a stainless steel ring when I go to a specialty plumbing supplier and return this one to HD.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member Joe Commisso's Avatar
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    thanks Gary, but it seems to come off easily enough, mabey the dirt or dust on pipe helps

  5. #5
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    IF the soil pipe goes down far enough before turning, cut it off lower and then install a coupler and an additional length of pipe.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    It would be a different story if you tried to fully seat the flange on the pipe...you likely couldn't, or if you did, it would be a bear to get off. Because it is a little short, you never reached the bottom of the taper.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member Joe Commisso's Avatar
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    cacher_chick : "IF the soil pipe goes down far enough before turning, cut it off lower and then install a coupler and an additional length of pipe."

    Thats what I will end up doing unless there is a easier solution. I would have to buy a rotozip bit of some kind, I'll see what HD has in my price range, that will fit into my 1/2 drill and cut from the inside. then there is the question of how long to make this new pipe, should I cut it to be flush with finished floor, slab, slightly under finished... I now know why the pros get paid the big bucks.

    I'll recap my question because it's getting a little off topic, and mabey thats because I havn't explained properly. I knew that installing a coupler was an option from the start but after reading how an inside cutter would be needed thought that someone on this forum could suggest a flange that is extended that will save me from doing this. Is there such a flange and if so would it need to be butted down against the cut edge of soil pipe or is it ok as long as the female end overlaps male end enough....sorry for the long and confusing questions. thanks
    Last edited by Joe Commisso; 06-17-2010 at 02:50 AM. Reason: left out quote and added additional explaination

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