(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18

Thread: basement bathroom rough in - pipe routing pictures

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member fusion_ta66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    8

    Cool basement bathroom rough in - pipe routing pictures

    Hello,

    Looking to rough in a bathroom in my basement. House is in MN and was built in 1995 and already has a bathroom roughed in from the original build (I assume). However, the rough in is out in the open and I want to move it closer to the wall. Here is a picture of the current setup and pipes. (I have kraft paper hanging up to simulate walls).

    You can see the existing rough in. It sits toward the center of the room. I want to move it back towards the wall that faces the street.
    Name:  main.jpg
Views: 933
Size:  52.1 KB

    Name:  1024131903.jpg
Views: 968
Size:  48.0 KB


    Of course without looking under the slab it will always be an assumption, but would it be a good assumption the way I have drawn the pipes under the slab? I'm assuming they all connect together and then exit the house towards the street.
    Name:  1024131902.jpg
Views: 895
Size:  50.7 KB

    This is the proposed layout of the bathroom. The room will be approximately 5' by 8'
    Name:  side.jpg
Views: 913
Size:  45.3 KB

    My plan is to break up the slab (noted by thin green line) and tee into the assumed under slab waste line for both the shower and toilet connections. A new tee will be put in above slab for the sink drain (probably in pipe B where the existing sink drain fitting is)
    Name:  1024131905.jpg
Views: 947
Size:  51.9 KB

    First question:
    What is the strategy when splicing the new toilet and shower drain lines into the under slab waste line? Can I tee in anywhere? Do I have to be spliced a certain way with respect to the vents? Do I need to have a 4-way tee and tee in exactly in where the current vent lines are? (labeled 1 and 2)

    Second question:
    Can I just cut off and cap the under slab waste lines that are running to the existing rough in shower and toilet?

    Third question:
    Pipes are all ABS. I was planning to make the new tee connections by cutting the existing pipe and gluing in the new fittings with ABS glue. Is this the proper way to do it?


    Thanks for any input,
    Joe

  2. #2
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    2,937

    Default

    Why would you do that? It appears that the entire group was properly roughed so that the vertical pipes are within the wet wall. Moving it is going to mean breaking up most of the floor and a huge hassle getting the clearance to install new fittings.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,624

    Default

    When you say you want to "move it", I "assume" you mean you want to "rotate" it so the fixtures are on the other side of the wall from where they are now. If so, you do not have to "assume" anything about HOW the piping runs, just break the concrete so you can cut the existing tees off and install new ones if the proper direction. You cannot, however, just "splice in tees" to the horizontal pipe. AND, you CANNOT connect the lavatory drain to the 4" line, unless you also install a vent for it, because it is NOT a vent, it is the drain for the upstairs.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,251

    Default

    Which pipes shown are actually working pipes in place and through the basement floor, and which are mock-ups butting up against the basement floor for illustration and planning purposes?

  5. #5
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,194
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    In my rough's, I would have 45'd over to the far 3" stack.
    I would not have had tees on the vertical, but combo on their backs.

    You're assuming that the plumber had nothing but time on his hands and liked digging really deep trenches.



    In my rough's, I would have 45'd over to the far 3" stack.
    Last edited by Terry; 10-25-2013 at 03:01 PM.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member fusion_ta66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Thanks everyone for your comments. All the pipes shown are the pipes that were originally installed for the rough in. I am in the process right now of breaking up the floor so I will have pictures of what's underneath soon.

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,624

    Default

    I might have brought the toilet riser BEHIND the lavatory, then angled over to the toilet with a side inlet sanitary tee, the connected the tub to that. Thus, maybe only a single vent needed, depending on distances.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member fusion_ta66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Hi guys, I broke up the floor and this is what I found

    Name:  1026131613.jpg
Views: 839
Size:  63.4 KB

    Name:  1026131613b.jpg
Views: 839
Size:  67.9 KB

    Name:  1026131615.jpg
Views: 850
Size:  73.8 KB

    Now the question, how can I run the drain and vent lines for the shower and toilet? Can anyone sketch in a diagram from one of my pictures?

    I can pretty much modify the vent tubes any way necessary since they are currently only there to vent the existing rough in which I won't be using.

    Thanks
    Joe

  9. #9
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,194
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    You're assuming that the plumber had nothing but time on his hands and liked digging really deep trenches.
    Terry
    I stand corrected. The plumber did have nothing but time on his hands.
    It's too late to sketch tonight. Maybe on Sunday.

  10. #10
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,624

    Default

    quote; The plumber did have nothing but time on his hands.

    Or at least his apprentice didn't. Cut off the elbow on pipe "1" and install a new one facing the other direction. You didn't expose the toilet connection so we can't tell you what to do about that.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member fusion_ta66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    8

    Default

    HJ,
    Is it necessary to use the pipes from the previous toilet connection or can I use the pipes that are exposed already?

  12. #12
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,194
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    If you work from the lower 3" line for the toilet, and vent it to the other vent at 42", that would be fine too. Any tee on it's back "horizontal" should be a wye or combo. We no longer can use a santee in that postion.

    If you are looking at the stack marked A, that is most likley a waste stack from above. Anything into that line will need it's own vent before tying back in, or at least a vent that ties into the previous vent at 42" from the concrete there.

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member fusion_ta66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    8

    Default

    OK here is a bit more info and my current plan. Feel free to let me know your thoughts.

    This is a closer up photo to show how the other line connects with the 3" horizontal pipe

    Name:  1027131156.jpg
Views: 829
Size:  82.0 KB

    Here a game plan I was thinking of. Take out the vent and line (1) that was running to the previous shower rough in. Cap it off

    Name:  1.jpg
Views: 847
Size:  67.6 KB

    Then splice in connectors (not sure of the name or if they exist) that will allow connections for both vent lines and drain lines running to the toilet and shower

    Name:  1b.jpg
Views: 816
Size:  73.9 KB

    Name:  1027131234.jpg
Views: 824
Size:  59.1 KB


    Thoughts?

    thanks
    Joe

  14. #14
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Land of Cheese
    Posts
    3,142

    Default

    The vent riser for each fixture needs to come off the branch it is serving before it wyes into the main line.

  15. #15
    DIY Junior Member fusion_ta66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    8

    Default

    OK, I think I may have it. How does this look?

    Name:  2222b.jpg
Views: 812
Size:  65.9 KB

Similar Threads

  1. 'L' vs. 'Y' DWV routing under concrete and wet vent size for basement bathroom?
    By abdixonga in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 01-23-2010, 10:53 AM
  2. Basement Bathroom Rough ins?
    By coggel in forum Remodel Forum & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-15-2006, 06:48 AM
  3. Basement Bathroom Rough In
    By sxk45 in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-24-2006, 11:45 AM
  4. Basement bathroom rough-in
    By Xenomorph in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-31-2006, 03:11 PM
  5. Basement Bathroom Rough in
    By brannans in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-28-2006, 07:35 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •