rick15752
New Member
Hello everyone,
I'm hoping for some info about the rough-in dimensions for a toilet. I'm replacing my ABS drain system with no-hub cast iron because of defective ABS. I'm working on the 2nd floor bathrooms and following the path taken by the original plumber. I've replaced a lot of the subfloor due to dryrot. I've encountered a problem with the way one of the 2nd floor toilets was roughed. I was planning on cutting the rough opening for the toilet 12" from the finished wall. But, that means I'll have to tilt a 3" cast iron vertical stack, that serves the 2nd floor drains, slightly out of plumb by 3/4". I've got this 3" stack perfectly plumb and would hate to tilt it just to allow me to put the rough toilet opening precisely on the 12" mark. Unfortunately, my home was not framed and plumbed as well as it should have been.
So, it looks like I'll have the center of the rough toilet opening at 11 1/4" from the finished wall instead of 12". I've checked another toilet downstairs and noticed the back of the tank is approximately 1 1/2" from the finished wall. I'm assuming that the rough opening of the downstairs toilet is 12" from the finished wall.
My question is ... how important is it to have the rough opening exactly 12" from the finished wall? I know I can buy a toilet with a 10" trap and be done with it. But, that would limit my choices of toilets, not to mention a higher cost. Also, some of the toilets with a 10" trap require the shut off to be no less than 5 1/2" from center. This would require some additional plumbing to move the copper from it's current position at 3 1/2" from center.
Anyone have a similar experience?
Thanks.
Rick
I'm hoping for some info about the rough-in dimensions for a toilet. I'm replacing my ABS drain system with no-hub cast iron because of defective ABS. I'm working on the 2nd floor bathrooms and following the path taken by the original plumber. I've replaced a lot of the subfloor due to dryrot. I've encountered a problem with the way one of the 2nd floor toilets was roughed. I was planning on cutting the rough opening for the toilet 12" from the finished wall. But, that means I'll have to tilt a 3" cast iron vertical stack, that serves the 2nd floor drains, slightly out of plumb by 3/4". I've got this 3" stack perfectly plumb and would hate to tilt it just to allow me to put the rough toilet opening precisely on the 12" mark. Unfortunately, my home was not framed and plumbed as well as it should have been.
So, it looks like I'll have the center of the rough toilet opening at 11 1/4" from the finished wall instead of 12". I've checked another toilet downstairs and noticed the back of the tank is approximately 1 1/2" from the finished wall. I'm assuming that the rough opening of the downstairs toilet is 12" from the finished wall.
My question is ... how important is it to have the rough opening exactly 12" from the finished wall? I know I can buy a toilet with a 10" trap and be done with it. But, that would limit my choices of toilets, not to mention a higher cost. Also, some of the toilets with a 10" trap require the shut off to be no less than 5 1/2" from center. This would require some additional plumbing to move the copper from it's current position at 3 1/2" from center.
Anyone have a similar experience?
Thanks.
Rick