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Thread: clearance for vanity and top

  1. #1
    DIY Member jetlag's Avatar
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    Default clearance for vanity and top

    I need to leave a rough opening for a 48 " vanity . It will be between a wall on each end. The problem is the tops at the supply are 49 or 50 inches. If I leave room for top will be a space on each end of vanity . If I dont leave room for top would have to cut if off. what is best thing to do , or is there another way. The vanity will be stained wood and hard to match.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Use a 49" top on a 48" cabinet. You need the extra inch for door opening clearance. Use filler strips on the sides.

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    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    The most straightforward: make the opening wide, install the cabinet & top, then use filler strips to close off the gaps.

    (Filler strips = extra piece of oak, scribed to fit exactly between the cabinet & the wall.)


    I assume you've never tried to stick a counter into a space with 3 sides closed in. It's HELL. You should seriously consider leaving one of the walls, until after the vanity is in place.
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Many (most?) of the cabinet manufacturers make prefinished filler strips available...buy some! You'll probably have to special order them. As mentioned, depending on the doors or drawers, you'll like that extra little bit on the ends. Also, if the opening isn't perfectly square, it will make installation and making the top look good harder. Unless the top is designed for a wall to wall installation, it may be tough to make the edges look good; they're usually rounded. A perfect place for crud to accumulate. If they have side panels available, you may want to consider them. It will make fitting and installation easier.

    A possible consideration...most granite and stone fabricators have 'shorts' and remnants that they will cut and finish for a good price. Where I get mine, the materials cost is 1/2 of the cost of a full-slab, custom job. The more expensive part is finshing the edge and the sink hole. Choose a simple edge, and especially since you only need one edge finished, that shouldn't add too much.
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  5. #5
    DIY Member jetlag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frenchie View Post
    The most straightforward: make the opening wide, install the cabinet & top, then use filler strips to close off the gaps.

    (Filler strips = extra piece of oak, scribed to fit exactly between the cabinet & the wall.)


    I assume you've never tried to stick a counter into a space with 3 sides closed in. It's HELL. You should seriously consider leaving one of the walls, until after the vanity is in place.
    I had a lot with back and one side but not both sides. I cant remember if I added the strip or slid all the overhang to one side. I do have an option I can turn the vanity against the wall on the right and will only have one wall on the left. But will only have 26" space to stand between top and the other wall. Is that enough room ? The wall behind you would only be 4 ft long for the shower. Its not like you would be in a long narrow space . The space is a 4x4 u shape . I have a couple inches to play with on the shower wall location

  6. #6
    DIY Member jetlag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Many (most?) of the cabinet manufacturers make prefinished filler strips available...buy some! You'll probably have to special order them. As mentioned, depending on the doors or drawers, you'll like that extra little bit on the ends. Also, if the opening isn't perfectly square, it will make installation and making the top look good harder. Unless the top is designed for a wall to wall installation, it may be tough to make the edges look good; they're usually rounded. A perfect place for crud to accumulate. If they have side panels available, you may want to consider them. It will make fitting and installation easier.

    A possible consideration...most granite and stone fabricators have 'shorts' and remnants that they will cut and finish for a good price. Where I get mine, the materials cost is 1/2 of the cost of a full-slab, custom job. The more expensive part is finshing the edge and the sink hole. Choose a simple edge, and especially since you only need one edge finished, that shouldn't add too much.

    If I pick a top with side panels will that cover up the rounded edges.?

  7. #7
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetlag View Post
    I had a lot with back and one side but not both sides. I cant remember if I added the strip or slid all the overhang to one side.
    I'm sure you noticed, when putting them in enclosed on 2 sides, that it's never a perfect fit? Just the thickness of the DW tape in the corner guarantees it, never mind a slight warp in the studs, or being a tiny bit off on the layout, so it's no quite exactly 90 degrees?

    I've done it with laminate tops, where I was able to scribe the counter to the wall. Can't imagine doing it with a top that can't easily be cut onsite...

    Maybe drywall only the bottom of the walls, then install the counter, then DW above? That extra inch would make life it a lot easier.


    I do have an option I can turn the vanity against the wall on the right and will only have one wall on the left. But will only have 26" space to stand between top and the other wall. Is that enough room ? The wall behind you would only be 4 ft long for the shower. Its not like you would be in a long narrow space . The space is a 4x4 u shape . I have a couple inches to play with on the shower wall location
    I dunno, but it sounds like that'd look...weird... compared to the original layout with it at the back of the 4x4 space. All the walls are already framed? Already rocked & taped?

    I suppose another way, would be to cut out just a section of the DW, to make the install easier, then patch...
    Master Plumber Mark:

    there is nothing better than the
    manly smell of WD 40 in the air
    while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...

    it smells like......victory......

    do not hit your thumb...
    __________________
    Just so everyone's clear: I'm the POODLE in the picture ("french", get it?) The hot woman is my wife.

  8. #8
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetlag View Post
    If I pick a top with side panels will that cover up the rounded edges.?
    Yes. It will also make the counter/wall joint a lot easier.

    Master Plumber Mark:

    there is nothing better than the
    manly smell of WD 40 in the air
    while banging away on brass with a chisel and hammer...

    it smells like......victory......

    do not hit your thumb...
    __________________
    Just so everyone's clear: I'm the POODLE in the picture ("french", get it?) The hot woman is my wife.

  9. #9
    DIY Member jetlag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frenchie View Post
    I'm sure you noticed, when putting them in enclosed on 2 sides, that it's never a perfect fit? Just the thickness of the DW tape in the corner guarantees it, never mind a slight warp in the studs, or being a tiny bit off on the layout, so it's no quite exactly 90 degrees?

    I've done it with laminate tops, where I was able to scribe the counter to the wall. Can't imagine doing it with a top that can't easily be cut onsite...

    Maybe drywall only the bottom of the walls, then install the counter, then DW above? That extra inch would make life it a lot easier.




    I dunno, but it sounds like that'd look...weird... compared to the original layout with it at the back of the 4x4 space. All the walls are already framed? Already rocked & taped?

    I suppose another way, would be to cut out just a section of the DW, to make the install easier, then patch...
    the wall on the right of vanity is framed and has 4'6" that can be used. The wall in back of the vanity is an exterior wall and is framed. It can be 48 to 51, out of that range I would have move the shower supply lines. The wall on the left is not framed yet , it will be one end of the shower. Its location will determine the length of the back wall. Im goin to have dry wall and ceramic tile . I figure 49 plus 1 for drywall plus 3/4 for tile plus 1/4 is 51 what do you think. I can go with 36 vanity and not have to worry , but that seem like a waste of vanity top space. No dry way installed yet.

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