Need help with plumbing for washer, NSPC

**alwaysfine** · 06-08-2010, 11:47 AM

When I moved into my house 37 yrs ago, there was a vent to the outside for a dryer and a 1.5" p-trap for the washer(pic #2). There have been a few washers & dryers during that time but all have used these connections. By that I mean the washer drain hose was placed directly into the 1.5" p-trap. I would like to put my washer & dryer into a separate room with the washer on the left and the dryer on the right as in the drawing(pic #1). I have access to run new hot and cold lines and a solid vent pipe for the dryer but the drain line has me confused. In moving things, the washer hose line will be too short to just drop into the p-trap, not that that would be the thing to do now that it will be behind a wall. It will probably be about a foot too short. As you might be able to see from the pictures, the soil line goes out through the wall at 53" above the basement floor due to having a septic system years ago. The top of the p-trap is 83" off the floor. What would be the best way to get the drain water from the washer into this p-trap? Can I run a 1.5" line under the ceiling on an angle to connect into the p-trap or is this going to cause other problems? Should I just get a longer hose for the washer and leave an access panel in the wall? Appreciate your thoughts.

**jadnashua** · 06-08-2010, 03:31 PM

If you need to get this inspected, today's code requires a 2" drain line for a WM and may be required if you are moving things, rather than repairing. You want the trap at the standpipe near the WM, otherwise, the long line may collect soap scum and lint and eventually smell nasty.

**alwaysfine** · 06-09-2010, 08:09 AM

Thanks for your reply. I am looking to do it right so I have a few more questions.

How hard would it be to replace the 1 1/2' trap with a 2" trap? The wye going into the 3" drain seems to be the main problem. If I cut the 3" pipe above the wye and unsweat the bottom, how do I get new pieces in? The 3" line above is only about 13" long and then there is a series of 3" wyes from the toilets and baths upstairs. If I do replace with a new wye how do I get the pipes together since nothing seems like it will move so I can get the pipes back together without a major problem?

If I did make this change would you then suggest I put the P-trap up near the ceiling for the hose from the washer and run a 2" pipe to the 3" drain or leave the p-trap over where it was and just run a 2" pipe to it?

**MACPLUMB 777** · 06-09-2010, 08:52 AM

PROFESSIONAL PLUMBERS USE ONE OF THESE RATED TO GO FROM COPPER TO PLASTIC PIPE

http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings

http://www.pexsupply.com/Mission-Couplings-330000

**alwaysfine** · 10-31-2010, 10:18 AM

I am finally getting back to this project and have a quick question. I have put in a washer box and decided to run 2" PVC through the studs to the back wall, make a 90 deg turn left and go another 7 feet to a new drain outlet. All is pitched 1/4" per foot. However, my vent for the basement to the roof is along the back wall 5' from the turn. Is this too far away from the box to put a vent?

**cacher_chick** · 10-31-2010, 06:30 PM

Does your basement have a dedicated vent? If any of the upstairs fixtures are draining into it, it cannot be used as a vent.

Here, a 2" horizontal drain must have the vent within 8 feet of the trap weir. The plumbing code that covers your area should specify the maximum distance allowed there.

**alwaysfine** · 11-04-2010, 10:07 AM

Thanks for the info. I do have a dedicated vent to the roof. It was Sunday and I wanted to get it done since I had an inspection scheduled for Monday. I should have thought of it sooner but got it done in time for an ok. It was 8' in this area. Thanks again.