Laundry drain setup, UPC

**bpetey** · 06-03-2010, 01:12 PM

I am installing a new drain for my washer, I have the pic that Terry posted and plan on making mine look the same. I had an utility sink in place before and will put it back when all is finished. My previous drain was 1 1/2"in the wall and under the house for approx 5', then 2" for 30 inches, then into the main 4" drain. I will replace all of the 1 1/2:" with 2" and install a vent through the roof. The old vent was about a 2' pipe inside the wall. On the horizontal run under the house, there is a clean out about 5' from where my drain goes through the floor. At this connection is where the reducer is to go down to 1 1/2". I plan to install 2"ABS to this point after removing the reducer. Is there anything else I need to do to do this the right way? The old pipe got pushed down from removing the nipple above the floor, That is why is is sloped in the wrong direction. I will slop my new pipe 1/4" per foot when I install it.

**Terry** · 06-03-2010, 01:31 PM

The washer drain should be 2".

The vent can be 1.5"

The 90 bend where it goes from vertical to horizontal should be a long turn 90.

**bpetey** · 06-03-2010, 02:40 PM

How high should my standpipe be with a utility sink installed too?

**Doherty Plumbing** · 06-03-2010, 03:04 PM

They're seperate. Rough in the sink @ 17" or so.

The washer box needs atleast 18" off "riser" comin off the trap before you connect to the washer box (or w/e you're using). That 18" may vary by your local area. Give yourself a 2 foot stand pipe for the washer to be safe.

**bpetey** · 06-03-2010, 09:52 PM

I ran into a guy who claimed to be a plumber at my local store. Most of his info matched what I've read here. He looked at the pic that Terry had posted and told me I did not need the extra vent as long as I was within 30" of the main vent. He also recommended a clean out above the sink hook up for any possible future back ups. I imagine the vent requirements are local code specific but does the 30" he told me sound ok? I'm doing this without permit or inspections. He gave me the stand pipe lengths as Min 18" and Max 30" which I have read in another thread so I assumed he knew something but would like a second or third opinion just to be sure.
Thanks guys and Gals for all of the help and useful info

hj · 06-04-2010, 08:00 AM

You could be 6" from the drain and NEED a vent, or 5' away and NOT need one. HOW the piping is installed determines it, NOT the distance from another pipe. That "galvanized" elbow at the turn is NOT a drain fitting, and will be almost IMPOSSIBLE to unplug when, not if, that 1 1/2" horizontal line gets plugged. It could also be responsible for the line getting plugged when it happens.

**MACPLUMB 777** · 06-04-2010, 08:21 AM

Plus you need to do something with that dryer vent pipe under the floor it is not legal

and may be a fire hazard

**bpetey** · 06-04-2010, 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by hj

You could be 6" from the drain and NEED a vent, or 5' away and NOT need one. HOW the piping is installed determines it, NOT the distance from another pipe. That "galvanized" elbow at the turn is NOT a drain fitting, and will be almost IMPOSSIBLE to unplug when, not if, that 1 1/2" horizontal line gets plugged. It could also be responsible for the line getting plugged when it happens.

I'll go back to my original plan and install the vent, It's not that much extra work. HJ, the 1 1/2 galvanized is getting replaced with 2" ABS along with a long 90 as Terry recommended.

**bpetey** · 06-04-2010, 09:20 AM

Originally Posted by MACPLUMB 777

Plus you need to do something with that dryer vent pipe under the floor it is not legal

and may be a fire hazard

Thanks, The dryer vent was like that when I bought my house a few years ago. What options do I have for the vent? It's 20 feet from any outside wall.

**bpetey** · 06-08-2010, 09:46 AM

Do you guys have any good tricks for cutting a hole in the roof (for the vet penetration) without going into the attic? After my stroke, I have a difficult time crawling across the studs to get all of the way into my attic and now I also have about 24" of blow in insulation to crawl through.

**worsnup** · 06-08-2010, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by bpetey

I am installing a new drain for my washer, I have the pic that Terry posted and plan on making mine look the same. I had an utility sink in place before and will put it back when all is finished. My previous drain was 1 1/2"in the wall and under the house for approx 5', then 2" for 30 inches, then into the main 4" drain. I will replace all of the 1 1/2:" with 2" and install a vent through the roof. The old vent was about a 2' pipe inside the wall. On the horizontal run under the house, there is a clean out about 5' from where my drain goes through the floor. At this connection is where the reducer is to go down to 1 1/2". I plan to install 2"ABS to this point after removing the reducer. Is there anything else I need to do to do this the right way? The old pipe got pushed down from removing the nipple above the floor, That is why is is sloped in the wrong direction. I will slop my new pipe 1/4" per foot when I install it.

you should run two 2" lines back to the 4'' to prevent suds in the sink

**MACPLUMB 777** · 06-09-2010, 11:48 AM

In over 30 plus years as a master plumber and drainman i have never seen or heard of any thing bigger then 2" pipe for a washer drain,laundry tub, and kitchen sink all draining though the same pipe and there is nothing in the plumbing code about anything more
then 2" pipe !
And i know i have passed a lot more inspections

**nukeman** · 06-09-2010, 12:39 PM

I don't know about using two 2" lines. I know a single 2" line works fine and is what is used in many areas. However, IPC does have a requirement that a washer does connect into a 3" or larger branch or stack (2" standpipe and trap, though).

See 406.3: https://www2.iccsafe.org/states/Virg..._Frameset.html

I assume that the OP is under UPC being in CA, so a 2" line all the way should be fine.

**bpetey** · 06-11-2010, 09:54 AM

Originally Posted by bpetey

Do you guys have any good tricks for cutting a hole in the roof (for the vet penetration) without going into the attic? After my stroke, I have a difficult time crawling across the studs to get all of the way into my attic and now I also have about 24" of blow in insulation to crawl through.

Well I figured out a way that worked good for me. I used a 5' long drill bit that I had for running wires pushed up through the vent pipe. Went on the roof and drilled my hole. Do I need to paint the abs pipe on the roof or is that only for aesthetics?